Friday, August 26, 2011

Into the Domain of Hawk-Edfu Temple

Continues from Kom Ombo Temple- A Visit to the Crocodiles and the Hawks

It was afternoon by the time we took the halt at Edfu. Fatima had come with us from Aswan in assisting our visit to the Edfu Temple. The sun was blazing hot as we’d started from the cruise in an old horse cart to Edfu.

Entrance to Edfu temple
As we reached the temple, the stone floors were burning hot. My head was sleepy after a heavy lunch and needed much persuasion to move from the shades into the burning courtyard. We crossed the courtyard and entered into the temple. 

At the ruins of Edfu Temple
At the other side of the temple entrance were some mud hills in their ruined state. Fatima explained that the Ptolemaic period temple was often threatened by the annual floods in the Nile. When the time of worshippers declined, Nile took its advantage and deposited the river silt on the temple. Later, the native people started to have their own homes, right from the temple courtyard. However, the temple was recovered in 1798 without much damage.

In front of the Hawk Guard
Two mighty falcon giants, bigger than human size and made in granite, guarded the temple entrance. Many pillars with lotus and Papyrus designs adorned the entrance hall of Edfu temple also. The ancient paintings depicting the age old conflict between Horace and Seth were strewn over the walls. Though the ancient colours retained their charm, the faces of the characters were scraped out by the invaders.

There was great significance for the Nile in relation with the temple of Edfu. In the temple days, huge boats sailed across the Nile carrying the supplies for the temple. There are remains of huge barns in the temple, where Egyptians had once stored their grains. The existing huge boat in the shrine was once used by the ancient priests to accompany Horace in his divine trips.

The boat at the shrine
It seems the entry for normal people into the temple were limited only till the entrance gates. It was mandatory for the priest to take a bath before entering the temple. The entry to the shrine was limited solely to the priests and even the King had to stop in front of the shrine. Well, this was not a new custom for me who has grown up in place that still follows these rules.

Edfu temple corridors
After spending some time in front of the shrine, we climbed to the first floor of the temple. Many doves have taken place of the falcons on these days. We climbed down the mighty corridors that surround the temple. In the ancient days of war, the temple also served as a hideout for the native warriors. The corridors were a strong protection cover for them on those days.

The heat was fading a bit as we came out of the temple. We passed many stalls selling native attires. Fatima suggested us to get some dresses on discount, if at all we are taking part in the Galapia Performance in the cruise. We didn’t!

Fatima bid us good bye at the cruise. We are sailing to Luxor on the same night and a new guide will assist us there. It is always a bit sad to part forever!

Continues inThe Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves

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