Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Kom Ombo Temple- A Visit to the Crocodiles and the Hawks

Continues from The Evening Rays of Egypt

We were in the hangover of a deep sleep in the next morning.  The scheduled Nubian show on the previous night was cancelled and replaced by Dharwish dance and Belly dance. We came back late from the performance and collapsed into the bed. The Spanish tourists were in the midst of their breakfast as we reached the dining hall. We had to really hurry with the Egyptian breakfast not to be delayed in our schedule to visit the Kom Ombo temple.

Fatima was ready at the desk by the time we reached the reception. We took a short walk from the cruise to the Kom Ombo temple than taking the taxi. The temple dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek and the hawk god Horace, stood at the bend of the Nile. While we walked to the temple Fatima gave the information that, the pavement where we walked, had once been the place for crocodiles to bask in the sun!

The tall entrance to the temple itself claimed that the structure hold not only one powerful existence but more than that. We first entered into the court of Sobek, dense with huge pillars. An uneven number of fifteen pillars were arranged in a triple row there. Some of them were destroyed but still behold the image of Sobek on them. 
A pillar with the image of Sobek

The Image of Childbirth
It seems that the ancient Egyptians considered the sanctuary of Sobek as an ideal place for childbirths and surgeries. Many images on the wall, depicting these scenes asserted this concept. 

Fatima ushered us to a well near the temple where once Sobek had ruled. The myth is that the guardians of many infertile women had used to send those women to this domain of Sobek. Without any doubt, the women would be fertile by the next morning! I really felt dizzy looking into the well which, was littered with cigarette butts and beer bottles.

Wall Paintings
Ancient Egyptian Calendar
The northern part of the temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horace the elder. There were beautiful paintings of Horace in ancient colours at the roof of the temple. On the walls of the temple ancient calendars written in hieroglyphics still remained accurate. Ancient Egyptians calculated the festivals depending on these calendars. The backside of the temple was almost annihilated owing to annual floods in the Nile, earthquakes and invaders. However, there still remained ancient wall reliefs escaped from the traitors against preservation.
Wind blew heavily across our face as we entered back into the pillar hall.  It was time for us to return to the cruise and start our sail to Edfu.
A panoramic view of the Kom Ombo temple

As the cruise engine started to hum and wade through the waves in Nile, I looked across the window. Kom Ombo temple was getting distanced from our view. Somehow, I felt the view familiar! Isn’t it a similar view that I had at an ancient temple at the banks of a Kerala river?
Surprise for Shreya



Afterword: There was a surprise waiting for Shreya as we returned to the room on the previous night- a puppy made out of a towel. However it had changed into a bird and sitting at the head of Shreya’s cradle while we returned from Kom Ombo trip. What more? It was wearing the little one’s abandoned dress and cap.

Continues in Into the Domain of Hawk-Edfu Temple

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