Karnak Temple: The Most Perfect of Places

Continues from The Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves 
 

When we woke up in the morning, the cruise had come to the final halt. On the day, we would visit two of the most famous temples in Egypt-Luxor and Karnak temple.

Our travel guide Nariman was waiting for us at the front desk. After ten minutes drive, we reached Karnak, a sacred place of built since the 30^th dynasty in Egypt.

Nariman first guided us to the miniature presentation of Karnak temple at the main entrance. A glimpse at the miniature presentation revealed that we had no chance to view the entire temple. Nariman explained that we would be visiting a part of the Eastern section of the temple.

The sun seethed on the visitors at the temple yard. It was really a challenge to step onto the yard under the blazing sun. Yet, we ventured it and the result was worth it.

Entrance to Karnak Temple

Ramesses II

Human headed Sphinx Avenue welcomed us before the huge colossal gates.  Each sphinx cradled a Pharaoh under them. The Sphinx heads were created in the image of God Amun Ra, who had presided in the temple. At the entrance were the two huge statues of Ramesses II with his hands crossed on his chest. Nariman explained that the action signified the dead status of the King.

Close image of the Sphinx

We entered the temple with its ruined mud yards and an array of sphinxes on its side. Many visitors were trying different poses in front of it. There was a woman jumping with joy in front of the sphinxes while her husband tried to capture the moment behind the lens.

We passed many headless statues on the corridor before reaching the many pillared hall. Nariman explained the invaders were adamant in removing the Pagan tradition and beheaded many of the statues. Many of the statues were faceless, nose less and ear less owing to the invasions. 

The many pillared hall of the temple displayed pillars designed with Papyrus and lotus like the pillars of Philae, Edfu and Kom Ombo. The pillars in the precinct of Amun were free standing and had inscriptions all around them. 

The Rising Sun Obelisk

There was a beautiful obelisk belonged to Queen Hatshepsut behind the pillars on whose tip the Sun always seemed to raise on the day time. There had another one belonged to the Queen but toppled by her nephew Thutmosis III.

The Scarab Beetle

Nariman left us at the temple pond to have a look by ourselves. There was a pylon with a huge structure of Scarab-beetle on it. For many years Egyptians worshiped the scarab beetle for its association with the creator God Amun. They had believed that the beetle pushed the Sun around the planet to ensure fertility for the country. 

We came out in exhilarated and exhausted at the same time. We have to head to Luxor temple soon. The Sun’s rays blinded us, yet we wanted to!

Continues in Luxor Temple: The Dazzling Preservation of a Culture

The Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves

Continues from Into the Domain of Hawk-Edfu Temple

We reached the cruise earlier than the Spanish tourists returned! There was ample time to take rest before the evening tea. As we were getting into the room, the guy from the spa came out and greeted us. Definitely, I got interested in the guy, who acutely resembled Harry Potter with his  round glasses, girlish grin and disheveled hair. After a conversation with him, both of us decided to get a spa treatment with the arrangement of each of taking turn to take care of Shreya. 

It was evening by the time we finished our spa treatments. The cruise had already started its sail by the time we went to the upper deck for tea. The sun had started his descend for the day, turning the waves of Nile into dark black.

The mist stretched across the water. We took our cups of tea and went to the forefront seats on the terrace. We immediately regretted! The tea instantly turned cold and the chilling wind started to sweep on our face. Little Shreya grinned in merry with the chill weather.

A Cruise in the Nile

It was then that we noticed the other cruise sailing behind us. Our cruise manager explained that they always travel in a convoy mode in watch for some emergencies.

Nile after the Sunset

Life flew on both sides of the Nile. A group of water birds headed in hurry towards their destination. The sun would sink at any moment and night cover the activities on the water. As if in a hurry to complete the day duties, the waves in the Nile fluttered frantically. At last the sun sank! The waves became calm as if something had dropped into it and submerged into the bottom.

No more had seen of the Nile. We listened to splashing music of Nile for some time and went down to our room. As we lay in our room, listening to the growling engine and splashing waters, I thought of the difference between day Nile and the night Nile.

Nile was in its best charm as we’d sailed from Aswan to Edfu. T he deep blue water evoked lush green waves on its banks. Just beyond the green growth, burning soil of Sahara desert glistened and craved for the touch of Nile.

Many camels had grazed on the river banks while farmers walked busy with their routines. We never knew time skipped into hours as we sat near the huge glass pane windows in our room, watching the beautiful expressions of the Nile.

For the lunch we had descended to the restaurant which came beneath the water level. The waves splashed across the window pane next to our seats. The waves seemed to touch us but danced back in glittering sunshine. It was an exotic experience for sure! We savored the view for a long time after finishing our lunch.

The dinner time took me away from the thoughts of the Nile. We went to the restaurant and took our regular seats. Our Spanish companions were busy reading the travelogue of Egypt. They suddenly rose in the midst of their dinner and hurried out of the hall. “They must have gone to see the Esna Lock,” The cruise captain who had dined with us, explained.

We had never heard of Esna Lock. It turned out to be the lock to raise and lower stretches of water between different levels of the Nile. The cruise would wait behind the closed gates in a chamber until the water level become equal. We rushed after our neighbors to watch this unheard practice.

Chill wind brazed us as we waited on the deck for the gates to be opened. Engines growled as they leveled the water in the Nile. After 15 minutes’ wait at the gate the water leveled to allow us to enter into the next phase of Nile. I didn’t felt anything great though! It may be due to my lack of interest in technical complicacies. Sreejith raved about this technique, while we came down.

The night had turned really dark as we came back from the Galapia Show at the visiting hall. I gazed through the window in hope to watch stars strewn across the Egyptian sky. The sky was dark and devoid of glitter. I dropped into sleep when the dark waters float out. The waves that cradled five thousand years of history and culture proudly floated along.


Continues in Karnak Temple: The Most Perfect of Places

Into the Domain of Hawk-Edfu Temple

Continues from Kom Ombo Temple- A Visit to the Crocodiles and the Hawks

It was afternoon by the time we took the halt at Edfu. Fatima had come with us from Aswan in assisting our visit to the Edfu Temple. The sun was blazing hot as we’d started from the cruise in an old horse cart to Edfu.

Entrance to Edfu temple

As we reached the temple, the stone floors were burning hot. My head was sleepy after a heavy lunch and needed much persuasion to move from the shades into the burning courtyard. We crossed the courtyard and entered into the temple. 

At the ruins of Edfu Temple

At the other side of the temple entrance were some mud hills in their ruined state. Fatima explained that the Ptolemaic period temple was often threatened by the annual floods in the Nile. When the time of worshippers declined, Nile took its advantage and deposited the river silt on the temple. Later, the native people started to have their own homes, right from the temple courtyard. However, the temple was recovered in 1798 without much damage.

In front of the Hawk Guard

Two mighty falcon giants, bigger than human size and made in granite, guarded the temple entrance. Many pillars with lotus and Papyrus designs adorned the entrance hall of Edfu temple also. The ancient paintings depicting the age old conflict between Horace and Seth were strewn over the walls. Though the ancient colours retained their charm, the faces of the characters were scraped out by the invaders.

There was great significance for the Nile in relation with the temple of Edfu. In the temple days, huge boats sailed across the Nile carrying the supplies for the temple. There are remains of huge barns in the temple, where Egyptians had once stored their grains. The existing huge boat in the shrine was once used by the ancient priests to accompany Horace in his divine trips.

The boat at the shrine

It seems the entry for normal people into the temple were limited only till the entrance gates. It was mandatory for the priest to take a bath before entering the temple. The entry to the shrine was limited solely to the priests and even the King had to stop in front of the shrine. Well, this was not a new custom for me who has grown up in place that still follows these rules.

Edfu temple corridors

After spending some time in front of the shrine, we climbed to the first floor of the temple. Many doves have taken place of the falcons on these days. We climbed down the mighty corridors that surround the temple. In the ancient days of war, the temple also served as a hideout for the native warriors. The corridors were a strong protection cover for them on those days.

The heat was fading a bit as we came out of the temple. We passed many stalls selling native attires. Fatima suggested us to get some dresses on discount, if at all we are taking part in the Galapia Performance in the cruise. We didn’t!

Fatima bid us good bye at the cruise. We are sailing to Luxor on the same night and a new guide will assist us there. It is always a bit sad to part forever!

Continues inThe Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves

Kom Ombo Temple- A Visit to the Crocodiles and the Hawks

Continues from The Evening Rays of Egypt

We were in the hangover of a deep sleep in the next morning.  The scheduled Nubian show on the previous night was cancelled and replaced by Dharwish dance and Belly dance. We came back late from the performance and collapsed into the bed. The Spanish tourists were in the midst of their breakfast as we reached the dining hall. We had to really hurry with the Egyptian breakfast not to be delayed in our schedule to visit the Kom Ombo temple.

Fatima was ready at the desk by the time we reached the reception. We took a short walk from the cruise to the Kom Ombo temple than taking the taxi. The temple dedicated to the crocodile god Sobek and the hawk god Horace, stood at the bend of the Nile. While we walked to the temple Fatima gave the information that, the pavement where we walked, had once been the place for crocodiles to bask in the sun!

The tall entrance to the temple itself claimed that the structure hold not only one powerful existence but more than that. We first entered into the court of Sobek, dense with huge pillars. An uneven number of fifteen pillars were arranged in a triple row there. Some of them were destroyed but still behold the image of Sobek on them. 

A pillar with the image of Sobek

The Image of Childbirth

It seems that the ancient Egyptians considered the sanctuary of Sobek as an ideal place for childbirths and surgeries. Many images on the wall, depicting these scenes asserted this concept. 

Fatima ushered us to a well near the temple where once Sobek had ruled. The myth is that the guardians of many infertile women had used to send those women to this domain of Sobek. Without any doubt, the women would be fertile by the next morning! I really felt dizzy looking into the well which, was littered with cigarette butts and beer bottles.

Wall Paintings

Ancient Egyptian Calendar

The northern part of the temple was dedicated to the falcon god Horace the elder. There were beautiful paintings of Horace in ancient colours at the roof of the temple. On the walls of the temple ancient calendars written in hieroglyphics still remained accurate. Ancient Egyptians calculated the festivals depending on these calendars. The backside of the temple was almost annihilated owing to annual floods in the Nile, earthquakes and invaders. However, there still remained ancient wall reliefs escaped from the traitors against preservation.

Wind blew heavily across our face as we entered back into the pillar hall.  It was time for us to return to the cruise and start our sail to Edfu.

A panoramic view of the Kom Ombo temple

As the cruise engine started to hum and wade through the waves in Nile, I looked across the window. Kom Ombo temple was getting distanced from our view. Somehow, I felt the view familiar! Isn’t it a similar view that I had at an ancient temple at the banks of a Kerala river?

Surprise for Shreya

Afterword: There was a surprise waiting for Shreya as we returned to the room on the previous night- a puppy made out of a towel. However it had changed into a bird and sitting at the head of Shreya’s cradle while we returned from Kom Ombo trip. What more? It was wearing the little one’s abandoned dress and cap.

Continues in Into the Domain of Hawk-Edfu Temple

The Evening Rays of Egypt!

Continues from Philae Temple-The Creation of God’s Home! 

The evening sun was turning golden in the horizon as we reached the banks of the Nile. The schedule was set for a felucca sail around the Elephantine Island. We started our sail from the straits of oldest hotel in Aswan where eminent personalities like Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie had reserved their rooms. As we started sailing, I looked back at the retracting scene of the hotel. How many characters must have born from Agatha’s pen while she peered into these waters from those windows!

The first scene we came across was the ruins of Yebu and the ancient nilometer. The nilometer was a structure constructed during Pharaonic times to measure the annual flood. Depending on this measurement, ancient Egyptians decided on the agricultural cycle of the year. Truly an admirable creation, their ruins clearly remain a proof for the ancient Egyptians' wisdom.

Our guide Fatima, who was from the elephantine island, was very passionate as she pointed out to the scenes of her home island. She was especially fond of the botanical garden of Lord Kitchner, a former counsel general in Egypt. It seems Lord Kitchner cradled a passion for flowers too. It seems the thickly green area is home for rare species of flora from all over the world.

Burial grounds of Agha Khan Mausoleum

We also sailed near the burial grounds of Agha Khan Mausoleum, the former leader of Ismaili Muslims. It was quite a scene to watch the beginning of Sahara desert on the very banks of the rich river of Nile. The ruins of Agha Khan Mansions boasted the luxuries of the land by their reflections on the evening waters. 

Feluccas

Grand old feluccas sailed in the direction of wind across the river. I expressed my desire to sail in them but immediately took it back. At a turn in the river a group of tourists where stuck in such a felucca in anticipation for the wind. 

As we reached back in our cruise, I asked the question, “Why this island is called Elephantine Island?” Fatima smiled, “There’s nothing to do with elephants in there. The island is believed to be in the shape of an elephant’s head.” With this, we parted with an agreement to meet next day morning.

Move n Pick hotel

Our evening tea was ready at the upper patio of the boat. The area was deserted as we reached there. The evening was turning misty under the crimson sun rays. On the opposite shore the only hotel in the Elephantine Island-Move n Pick- started to show off its row of lights. Though played around for some time, even little Shreya pondered over the beauty and kept silent. Much is awaiting us on the next day.





Continues in Kom Ombo Temple- A Visit to the Crocodiles and the Hawks

Philae Temple-The Creation of God’s Home!

 Continues from Temple of Philae-A Temple for Love! 

The sail in Felucca to the Philae temple under the hot afternoon sun was delightful and tiring at the same time. The beautiful island that houses the majestic Philae temple was not the original home for Isis worshippers. The temple was earlier at an island near which, Aswan High Dam is located now!

During the construction of Aswan High dam, a looming flood threatened the existence of Philae temple. The Egyptian authorities were not ready to risk the loss of one of their regal ancestries. They dismantled the temple into 9,600, pieces numbering each piece in accordance to their existence. After a devoted effort, the temple was resurrected in the present island.

As we sailed nearer, steep sides and lofty walls, carved in Syneite stones became more visible. It seems neither a bird flies above this island nor a fish approaches its shore.  We descended from the felucca and passed a group of Spaniards resembled to come out of the movie Bucket List.

Trojan's Kiosk at the Philae Temple

The first thing Fatima pointed to us was the Trojan’s Kiosk at the entrance. However we didn’t particularly felt anything owing to its obliterated condition. Architectural wealth from various eras, extending from Pharaohs to the Caesars, was scattered in the very yard of the temple. There were remains of the faded imageries of Hathor’s story encrypted during the origin of the temple in 380-362 BCE by the orders of King Nectanebo. However what attracted us the most was the row of pillars on the side of the temple.

Pillars at the Philae Temple

Shade and light played a singular effect on the floors of the temple yard. Owing to the pillars’ position near the tropic of Cancer during the time, the view was quite unique. The ancient pillars proudly displayed two designs on their heads- the designs of Papyrus and lotus! The pillars and its walls were painted in vivid natural colours during its origin. Though the colours have lost their brilliance to time and dryness, they still retained their beauty. Various combinations of palm branches and dhoum leaf on the pillars silently promoted the artistic talent of its creators.

After admiring the beauty of the structures, we entered into the temple. The temple entrance was carved with rich images from the story of Isis. The monumental gateway to the temple was called Propyla. They were pyramidal in form and colossal in dimensions. Two colossal lions in granite stood in front of the Propyla. In my Hindu mind, they acutely resembled the ‘Dwarapalakas’ of Indian temples.

Some paintings on the walls were scraped out by Christian invaders of early eras. At each corner of the shrine stood a monolithic worship hole, the cage for the sacred hawk. The inscriptions from the Macedonian era still shone bright surviving the invasions. 

Near the image of Isis

We entered the shrine with shining walls of rich symbolic imagery. The image of Isis with protective wings around her husband was the most beautiful among them. The picture didn’t come out well in our camera lens, but got encrypted in my memory. 

The Holy cross at the entrance of Philae Temple

Native men dressed in Galapia dress were posing for the foreign cameras as we came out of the shrine. Our guide pointed out an inscription amidst the Egyptian images. A divine cross! Anyway, it wasn’t natural but had inscribed by the Roman invaders. 

The evening breeze had started to blow as we roamed around the shrine. We sat at the edge of the temple in the backdrop of the Nile. In the distance, Nubian islands sidelined the blue waters. Blissful was the feeling to be in that soil for some memorable hours!

Continues in The Evening Rays of Egypt!

Temple of Philae-A Temple for Love!

Continues from Into The lap of Nile

Philae Temple

The afternoon sun shone bright and cloudless as we reached the shores of Nile.  The clear blue sky matched its radiance to the waters. The Felucca started its sail, taking us for the first sail in the Nile.

In the distance, we spotted some islands crowded with rocks. Fatima explained that they are dwelling place of Nubians, the tribal in Egypt. They rarely come out at this time of the day. 

As we were marvelling the unpolluted water of Nile, the water birds hopping on its surface and the Nubian village lining the shores, Fatima started to tell the story of Philae.

Once upon a time, the sky God Geb and the earth goddess Nut had four children: Osiris, Isis, Set and Nephys. Being the eldest and greatest among them, Osiris became the King of Egypt. He married his sister Isis and ruled the kingdom in excellent condition.

The good times didn’t last long. Set, who was jealous of his brother’s glory decided to attack his brother. Set transformed himself into a monster and killed Osiris. In order to prevent the resurrection of Osiris, Set cut Osiris body into different parts and distributed it among many areas in Egypt.

The Entrance to Philae temple with symbolic images of its story

Isis cried continuously over the loss of her husband. However, with the help of Nephys, wife of Set, Isis found out the body parts of Osiris. She assembled the body and with her great magical power blew life into her husband. 

Osiris went to the underworld and started his domain there. The couple had a son named Horace. As Horace grew up, he challenged Set for his rightful throne. After a series of matches, Horace emerged as the winner with the help of his mother Isis and father Osiris.

The temple of Philae is dedicated to Isis, the mother of Gods, Osiris, their son Horace and the family. It seems, the Osiris' body parts laid in the Nubian island across the Nile. The people sometimes tell that the flood in Nile happens when Isis cries for her husband. 

For centuries, the temple remained as the home for worshipers of Isis. The temple now remains as a major tourist spot beholding its majesty.

Continues in Philae Temple-The Creation of God’s Home!