Flowers of the Desert

Continues from Into the Forest…

No Nightingale did ever chant 

  More welcome notes to weary bands  

Of travellers in some shady haunt,   

 Among Arabian sands:  (The Solitary Reaper: William Wordsworth)

The experiences in Abhah were definitely uprooting our concept of the desert country. On the third day at Abha, we decided to head to Al Soudha, for the longest cable car travel in Abha. On the way, we missed the route and took a wrong deviation. The wrong trudge was only to present us with some unique views.

A wave of golden grass spread near the mistaken path. The golden waves were outlined by striped mud mounds at the far end. On the other side of the golden stretch, wild flowers in stunning hues marked their edge. Houses in traditional architect stood proudly in their leisurely slumber. 

It was scene out from pictures, classic movies and beautiful dreams. There needed not much time for us to stop our vehicles and to get out exploring this wild land. 

The scene was mesmerizing and the moderate climate added to its charm. It was there that I saw a well for the first time in Saudi Arabia. Protected by a strong wall, the well protected the precious water of the desert at its un-gauged depth.

The clear blue sky made the heavenly sight hypnotic for the spectator. 

Silver clouds floated in an entrancing wave as the golden waves danced beneath. The nameless flowers flushed and amassed the bright golden colours at the bounteous green at the edges.

The whole scene would definitely confuse a desert traveler. It was as if the great painter had put the whole leftover paint after painting his beautiful landscapes onto this land. However this unique landscape is beyond depiction and beyond description. 

I listen'd, motionless and still;

And, as I mounted up the hill, 

 The music in my heart I bore, 

 Long after it was heard no more. (The Solitary Reaper: William Wordsworth)

Into the Forest…

 Continues from Al Habbalah Village- The heaven on Desert

“I never expected something like this in Saudi Arabia. This place is indeed a heaven. It’s time people have to change their attitude on Saudi Arabia as a barren land. I’ve started to fall in love with this country.” These were words of Mr. Tom…. Who had been on a deputation from Holland!

Tom’s words were our thoughts too. As we stopped on the narrow road at the edge of a deep valley and cactus bushes, our minds were echoed with excitement and wonder.

While we were descending through the cable cars, I’d spotted some people walking amidst the green foliage near the Habbalah village. Very soon, as we were sitting in our reverie, Sreejith spotted some men across the ruined house after the small forest. We decided to take walk towards that direction.

We would have definitely missed the essence of our trip if we’d missed that walk. It was a walk in a real desert forest. It was wilderness and beauty everywhere. Birds chirped, insects creaked and many living things were enjoying their privilege out there.

Into the forest

Shreya was thrilled as we were amazed to see such greenery amidst the desert. The path was barren and looked fresh even after the umpteen footsteps. It was a smooth walk till we reached the narrow steps near the Habbalah house. The wide valley lay at one side and a stretch of cactus bushes adorned its stretch. The path was mixed with slippery stones. 

I was not sure to proceed with Shreya and I knew fear was gripping me. It was then Tom and his friends came back from the Habbalah house.  His excitement and warmth pushed me to go further. After five minutes, breathless and with my sprained feet, we reached at the Habbalah house.

I sat at the thatched mud mountains of the home overlooking the valley. Our friends were ready to follow us for this unique tread. Sreejith entered the house to admire the old interiors. But my journey had finished. This walk and the view stretched before were enough for me.

It was post noon time and the mighty mountains slowly embrowned themselves. Though the day stood visible with its blue screen in the sky, darkness started to creep over the mountains. The night was drawing near closing its shade curtains around.

Sunset from Habbalah House

The shaded noon with its mere complexion added the face of twilight to the mountains. The birds flew across the bright sky while, silence was spreading amidst the foliage. It was time for us to return too. As we ascended in the cable car and drove across the mighty mountains back to our hotel, I just thought of the many miracles of the creator. A forest amidst a desert -never heard of such an oxymoron and couldn’t believe even after the experience!

Al Habbalah Village- The heaven on Desert

Continues from Al Habbalah- The Pulse of a City

The steep cable car ride took us to the hanging village of Habbalah within minutes. Even those who were dreading the ride enjoyed it. The slow movement of the cars and the scenery around the deep valleys made us forget everything outside. We were at Habbalah village in Abha, a dreamy land with deep valleys, misty mountains, green foliage and much tramped paths.

As we got out from the car, we stood at the spot for some more time to admire the climb and descend of the cars. In the backdrop of the huge mountains and the in the wide distance between the stations, the cable cars looked like play toys.

It was cold, sunny, steep, adventurous and overall an enchanting village. The children started to get really ecstatic and run to the open and  steps all around. Shreya escaped very soon from our hands and following her I reached the top of the ruins before others.

The steps were adorned with  bougainvillea on one side and wild bushes. The shrubs looked so similar to shrubs from our home country. It was truly a nostalgic sight. The barren desert mountains glazed in the afternoon sunlight across the ruins.

The ruined house also consisted a mountain cafeteria whose kitchen, store room and restroom were on the top of the house. The terrace in front of that was unkept and opens to the wide chasm below the mountains. As I stood at the edge of the terrace, my heart raced both with fear and excitement. 

Can you spot the cable car?

However, the real shock to my heart came very soon. I relaxed while Shreya got out from the terrace and ran to play with her friends. However, while climbing the steps, she lost the balance and was falling back to the narrow gap of mountains leading to the above mentioned chasm. I am sure that there was a divine hand that steadied her at that moment without which we I would have lost myself too.

 I was sitting shocked and numb for some time before Sreejith found out something to rejuvenate us.

Continues in Into the Forest…

Al Habbalah- The Pulse of a City

Continues from The Mountain Market! 

It took us around 20 minutes of drive from the traditional market of Abha to the Habbalah village. The winding mountain roads presented sceneries that had been unique to the country. Every picturesque spot were fresh and a pleasure for our eyes. Even the dirty looking monkeys that so often ventured the fast driven roads entertained us. 

We were in fact driving through the part of the country that held a different pulse of the culture. All along the way we could see houses in traditional architecture. Though we wanted to stop and photograph them, the sun and the time constraints detained us.

The native people of the place were much friendlier and helpful that their counterparts in the capital city. Though they were reckless in driving, some of them took all pains to take us to our destination. We reached Al-Habalah by 11a.m. 

Al Habbalah

The mountains were mitigated with the fairy mist. The bronze valleys held the golden sun rays under their cold blankets. The beauty was heavenly and serene.  The calm moments were pelted by the mountain monkeys who threatened the visitors into their own land.

The children were definitely not in a mood to enjoy this calm bliss of their parents. We very soon found a café table overlooking the valley. The Arabian burgers tasted good as never before at that mesmerizing location. 

After the short time at the mountain tops, we were ready to travel down to Al Habbalah Village, once inhabited village of the the Qahtan tribe. This village was inhabited until 1970s. The people were relocated to the King Faisal Village in the 1970s and the place remained untouched for many years.

Al Habbalah

The main transportation method to Al Habbalah Village in the early days was ladders and ropes now replaced by the cable car. From above the village seemed to hang from a cliff above a wide valley. Someone explained to us that the village was also called ‘the hanging village’ owing to its appearance.

We were ready for the steep descend. I felt goose bumps as I saw the cable car approaching us.

Continues in Al Habbalah Village- The heaven on Desert

The Mountain Market!

 Continues from The Green Mountain

When we’d wake up in the next morning we were really drowsy enough to have any excitement about a visit to the local traditional market in Abhah. Yet, in concern for other travel companions, we dragged out of the bed. After a refreshing continental breakfast, we headed to the local market.

The cool morning in Abhah reminded me of the Garden city of India during the year 2000. Huge green leafy trees walled the medians. Whenever we stopped at a signal the sound of the twittering birds could almost overpower the buzz of vehicles.  Wherever the median lacked the trees, they were beautifully gardened with date palm trees, green lawns or flower bushes.

“After all, did we come to see this?” That was my first reaction as we entered the Abhah market. Most of the shops remained close owing to the morning slumbers. The men in the group went into a traditional honey shop where they sell, honey combs, old leather water bags and native pots.

I was definitely fascinated by the leather water bags. I had so far seen them only in the childhood picture comics of Arabian Nights. My childish mind wanted to own one of the bags but my reasonable mind stopped me even from expressing that wish.

The Honey combs

White honey combs were soaked well like delicious halwas in the golden honey. The vendor offered us some combs to taste. It was much sweeter than my palette can savour. As the men bargained with the vendor, the children darted into the then empty market paths and we followed them. 

Many shops were stacked with home accessories for a day today life. There were also spices, colourful pots, mats, souvenirs and traditional accessories on sale. We got into a shop of a Bangladeshi vendor. As we rifled through many of the traditional souvenirs, we were interested to see that many of them resemble our native accessories.

Abha Market

We had a small chat with the vendor. He informed that the market is comparatively less crowded on the day being a working day of the week. In contrast to our assumption, he was not the owner of the shop and most of the shops in that market are owned by women of the place. This market was a symbol for woman power in the Arab world. 

The sun was getting hot and it was soon time for us to continue to our next destination. As we got out of the market, I thought, “each native market in a country hold pulse of the people dwelling there.  The vendors may watch many people from diverse cultures walking through their own paths. But in the mornings of silent openings and nights of calm closings, they all have a unique language and feeling.”

Continues in Al Habbalah Village-The heaven on Desert

The Green Mountain!

 Continues from From the Sea level to the Mountains

Jimson and Julie joined us at Mercure by 5p.m. By 7p.m all of us were ready to visit the Green Mountain, a hill in Abhah, a popular tourist spot. We spent almost one hour on the roads of Abhah in search of the Green Mountain. At many instances we could get the glimpse of the mountain but the route to reach its foot remained unknown.

After many queries we took some steep upside curves and reached our destination. The hill was covered with green electric lights around to realize its name. The wind was blowing painfully chilly as we got out of the car. The time for the cable car travel across the mountain was over and we had no other option but to get back to the hotel.

We walked to the edge of the mountain where tourists were getting a bird’s eye view of the city at night. Away from the green boundary of the mountain, the flood of lights announced the spirit of the city. The dark mountains stood magnificently amidst the ocean of lights. 

From the Green Mountain

We returned back to the Green Mountain after two days. We reached there just before the closing time and were lucky enough to get into the service. In the dark and chilly air, the cable car took us over the Jebel Thera region. 

The city below lulled in cosy darkness with floods of light in some regions. The air sail took almost 7 minutes and we reached the opposite hill. From there, the Green Mountain looked like a glittering green mound.

As we started to roam around the well-built grounds, Sreejith, Shreya and I sneaked into a private café room overlooking the city of Abha. There was no service at that time. Far below the mountains, the dark winding roads were glittered with umpteen moving vehicles. The dark winding road looked like a huge python uncoiling and flashing its glittering spots. . As we sat together there as a family, looking at the dark mountains and the starry sky, we felt that our trip was really memorable.

From the Sea level to the Mountains

 Continues from Moonlit Ocean Thoughts….

We woke up after a refreshing and sound sleep at night. Since we’d packed our bags earlier, the morning looked relaxed and calm. The Red Sea seemed to be under her lazy morning slumber as we bid good bye to the Coral Resort.

The egret birds were busy at the back waters for their morning preys. As we moved to the ferry with sleeping children in our hands, the Sun glossed up from the horizon.

All of us were tired to enjoy the morning rays on the Red sea. By the time the ferry had started we all fell into a nap. It was the ferry men who woke us up. 

All of us were feeling really hungry and exhausted for the breakfast. After some unsuccessful attempts to find out a South Indian restaurant, we resolved to try out the Kudu. Their breakfast tasted the best in our hungry palettes.

The scenery started to change from the sandy beaches to barren mountains as we drove to Abhah. The wide roads were divided by medians lined with date palms. Soon we entered into the roads amidst the giant Asir Mountains. 

As we drove onwards, we realized that we were not feeling the strain of deep hair pin curves on those zigzag roads. Some of the native cars were doing dangerous overtakes on the two line roads. Mostly the roads were clear and open for free drive owing to the mid Eid vacation days.

The shining sun rays under the chilly wind made the climate exotic as we stopped the car at a vegetable vendor. On contrary to the normal hill station vegetable stalls, the stock was of inferior quality and high in price. 

The winding roads, well lit tunnels and mountain walled lines soon took us to the middle of the Asir of Province. We stopped our car near a popular parking spot, where most of the tourists took a glimpse of the mountains and the beautiful landscape beneath. The wind was chilly and carried the smell of a public lavatory.

The urge to get back to the car or to marvel the scenery around had an equal pull. Finally the beauty of nature took its control. The mist covered mountains beneath were spotted at times by a flock of birds. Above our heads were winding roads supported on huge pillars and leading to the city of Abha.

We finally reached our destination by 3p.m. After finding a local Kerala Restaurant amidst the busy local market at Abha we checked into the Hotel Mercure. We would soon joined by our other travel companions-Jimson & Julie. Till they reach the hotel, it was break time for us.

Continues in The Green Mountain!

Moonlit Ocean Thoughts….

Continues from At Heaven!

I was on the shore very soon after the contemplative moments. The mind was calm and relaxed and I craved for solitude. As others enjoyed in the lap of the clear blue waters, I walked on the untouched sandy shore. 

My feet were touching the bare earth after a long time. The white grains started tickling and rejuvenating my nerves. In that solitary walk, everything around attained a wonderful beauty. Kissed by the wild shrubs on one side and water on the other side, the narrow path lured its walkers to go more.

Vast assortment of sea life scattered around the shore. The beautiful costumes of sea creatures announced the magnificence and unknown wonders under the sea. I picked some shells and scattered them back to their home.

The sun set was on as others started to emerge back from the water. There was the call of hunger. As we cooked and ate the noodles at the small gas stove in the back hut, it was like experiencing all the fun of cooking in the long lost periods.

Sun Set at Farasan

The mounds were covered in darkness as we came out of the hut. The sea waves were blossoming in dark blue colours. The sky was in brilliant colours of burning red. The nature arrayed its beautiful painting for moments and then dark blue beams spread over everything.

The boatmen came back and we started back. As the boat raced across the moonlit waters, the roar of waves overpowered the human voices. No one was speaking and got lost in own thoughts.

As I looked at the moonlit faces, they looked very calm and serene. We, who were bound together in that boat at the moment, would have to be apart in the future. On that moment I thought of many of my dear friends with whom I had spent many days, months and years together. Though inseparable during those times we all had to separate to meet again for hours or never at all. But the love and good moments remain alive in memory.

This memory will definitely be one like that. We were bound to cherish this wonderful day together. The last day at Furasan Islands will be remembered in a corresponding way by all of us in the coming years. 

The journey to Abha would begin on the next day….

Continues in From the Sea level to the Mountains

At Heaven!

Continues from Spirituality of Fishing

The Heaven

 The first thing that I noticed was the crystal clear blue waters and the white sandy beach. Amidst the desert mountains and wild shrubs stood an open tent and a small hut. The sea looked like a wide river on this part covered by mountain walls and small islands. I was so impatient to get our things into the open tent and change into my swimming costumes. The warm waters under the noon sun lured us to its lap.

Just as in other Farasan beaches the water was not deep here also. As Shreya started wading through the shallow water, I kept her company. The sea floor was clearer than the other beaches but still held corals and sea lives on it.  Since there was a caution notice for stingrays on the shore, we kept close watch of the children. All the more my ever persistent fear for snakes was more prominent in that wildly beautiful place.

The fear started to wear off very soon as we explored the waters. It was one of the best places for snorkelling since sea life was at its splendour on that area. Even my swimming glasses could reveal many beautiful creatures underwater.

As children floated around with their own fun, we took turns to keep watch of them.  I swam into the deep waters for some time but my limbs grew tired so soon.  As a relaxation, I started to float. The water held me much better than the waters I ever had been into.

As I lay there, neither in sky nor in land, neither in water nor outside it, my mind grew empty. Silver clouds lazily floated on the blue sky above me.  Blue water floated smoothly over me. Rocky Mountains shone in warmth around the place. There was silence! Even the water over my ear level didn’t have any sound. It was absolute bliss and I closed my eyes.

The moment flows by like molten sapphire

Deep blue silences no earth below, No sky above

Only me, my breath, my heartbeat

Such depth like this, such loneliness like this

And me only me

I now believe I exist.

                                                                                           Courtsey: Zindagi Mile Na Dobara

 Continues in Moonlit Ocean Thoughts….

Spirituality of Fishing

 Continues from In the Heart of the Sea

A fishing competition was beginning in the boat. The boatmen distributed fishing cords and hooks that held small fish to each of us. All of us put our fishing cords to the deep blue waters. The boat men had warned that we shouldn’t put the cords too deep since there were ample chances for the hook to get caught amidst the corals. I learnt later that we shouldn’t put the cords above the visible depth of the water too.

First fish in the boat

A roar erupted from back of the boat as Nadeer caught the first fish in the boat. As he cheered and laughed over the victory, the second fish came onto his hook. The competition on the boat grew tight with others still dipping their cords into the water.

Our fish

 Shreya started persisting me to get a fish for her.  It might have been to answer her call; I felt a jerk at my cord and pulled it up. A silver and orange fish was gasping for breath at the end of the cord. The boatman soon released the fish and put her into the basket.

Soon, Bakhr in our group pulled out his cord with a coral hanging at the hook. It was Sreejith’s turn to pull out the cord next. His small fish was missing since the big fish from the sea was smart enough to bit off only his prey.  I again felt a jerk on my cord and pulled it up.  I saw a white fish coming up. All of sudden it plunged back into the sea with its prey. The big fish kept on attacking Sreejith’s preys. As everyone got tired of waiting and children grew restless, the boatmen moved the boat to another fishing location.

In the new location, the first fish hung to Bakhr’s wife’s cord. Nadeer followed the trail soon. He was leading with three fish to one fish from me and one from Bakhr’s wife. Again I felt a movement to my cord and with difficulty pulled it up. There was the biggest fish on the cord that had come to the boat. (Here, I realize that Nadeer will strongly disagree with me.)  The boatman told that this fish is really tasty and I could literally see his mouth watering.

A fish soon caught into Sreejith’s hook and finally one more fish came into Nadeer’s. Others who didn’t get even a single fish were getting restless by this time. We pulled out the cords and started the engine. The boatmen suggested that we can roast the raw fish at the island as some Westerners do. Since no one was eager for that we generously donated the fish to the boatmen.

 As we headed through the sea with shores of private islands, Shreya called me to show the fish in the basket. They were gasping for breath with their eyes bulging out.

All of a sudden the person in me who had been brought up as a felt the pang of guilt surging in. Suddenly I remembered my dear friend’s words, “Why do you feel so guilty in some situations? There is a reason for every happening in life. It is not you who is doing that but there is a power that makes you do that. You are only a tool. Your duty is to be happy and admire that power."

We reached our private island by then.

Continues in At Heaven!