The Evening Rays of Egypt!

Continues from Philae Temple-The Creation of God’s Home! 

The evening sun was turning golden in the horizon as we reached the banks of the Nile. The schedule was set for a felucca sail around the Elephantine Island. We started our sail from the straits of oldest hotel in Aswan where eminent personalities like Winston Churchill and Agatha Christie had reserved their rooms. As we started sailing, I looked back at the retracting scene of the hotel. How many characters must have born from Agatha’s pen while she peered into these waters from those windows!

The first scene we came across was the ruins of Yebu and the ancient nilometer. The nilometer was a structure constructed during Pharaonic times to measure the annual flood. Depending on this measurement, ancient Egyptians decided on the agricultural cycle of the year. Truly an admirable creation, their ruins clearly remain a proof for the ancient Egyptians' wisdom.

Our guide Fatima, who was from the elephantine island, was very passionate as she pointed out to the scenes of her home island. She was especially fond of the botanical garden of Lord Kitchner, a former counsel general in Egypt. It seems Lord Kitchner cradled a passion for flowers too. It seems the thickly green area is home for rare species of flora from all over the world.

Burial grounds of Agha Khan Mausoleum

We also sailed near the burial grounds of Agha Khan Mausoleum, the former leader of Ismaili Muslims. It was quite a scene to watch the beginning of Sahara desert on the very banks of the rich river of Nile. The ruins of Agha Khan Mansions boasted the luxuries of the land by their reflections on the evening waters. 

Feluccas

Grand old feluccas sailed in the direction of wind across the river. I expressed my desire to sail in them but immediately took it back. At a turn in the river a group of tourists where stuck in such a felucca in anticipation for the wind. 

As we reached back in our cruise, I asked the question, “Why this island is called Elephantine Island?” Fatima smiled, “There’s nothing to do with elephants in there. The island is believed to be in the shape of an elephant’s head.” With this, we parted with an agreement to meet next day morning.

Move n Pick hotel

Our evening tea was ready at the upper patio of the boat. The area was deserted as we reached there. The evening was turning misty under the crimson sun rays. On the opposite shore the only hotel in the Elephantine Island-Move n Pick- started to show off its row of lights. Though played around for some time, even little Shreya pondered over the beauty and kept silent. Much is awaiting us on the next day.





Continues in Kom Ombo Temple- A Visit to the Crocodiles and the Hawks

Philae Temple-The Creation of God’s Home!

 Continues from Temple of Philae-A Temple for Love! 

The sail in Felucca to the Philae temple under the hot afternoon sun was delightful and tiring at the same time. The beautiful island that houses the majestic Philae temple was not the original home for Isis worshippers. The temple was earlier at an island near which, Aswan High Dam is located now!

During the construction of Aswan High dam, a looming flood threatened the existence of Philae temple. The Egyptian authorities were not ready to risk the loss of one of their regal ancestries. They dismantled the temple into 9,600, pieces numbering each piece in accordance to their existence. After a devoted effort, the temple was resurrected in the present island.

As we sailed nearer, steep sides and lofty walls, carved in Syneite stones became more visible. It seems neither a bird flies above this island nor a fish approaches its shore.  We descended from the felucca and passed a group of Spaniards resembled to come out of the movie Bucket List.

Trojan's Kiosk at the Philae Temple

The first thing Fatima pointed to us was the Trojan’s Kiosk at the entrance. However we didn’t particularly felt anything owing to its obliterated condition. Architectural wealth from various eras, extending from Pharaohs to the Caesars, was scattered in the very yard of the temple. There were remains of the faded imageries of Hathor’s story encrypted during the origin of the temple in 380-362 BCE by the orders of King Nectanebo. However what attracted us the most was the row of pillars on the side of the temple.

Pillars at the Philae Temple

Shade and light played a singular effect on the floors of the temple yard. Owing to the pillars’ position near the tropic of Cancer during the time, the view was quite unique. The ancient pillars proudly displayed two designs on their heads- the designs of Papyrus and lotus! The pillars and its walls were painted in vivid natural colours during its origin. Though the colours have lost their brilliance to time and dryness, they still retained their beauty. Various combinations of palm branches and dhoum leaf on the pillars silently promoted the artistic talent of its creators.

After admiring the beauty of the structures, we entered into the temple. The temple entrance was carved with rich images from the story of Isis. The monumental gateway to the temple was called Propyla. They were pyramidal in form and colossal in dimensions. Two colossal lions in granite stood in front of the Propyla. In my Hindu mind, they acutely resembled the ‘Dwarapalakas’ of Indian temples.

Some paintings on the walls were scraped out by Christian invaders of early eras. At each corner of the shrine stood a monolithic worship hole, the cage for the sacred hawk. The inscriptions from the Macedonian era still shone bright surviving the invasions. 

Near the image of Isis

We entered the shrine with shining walls of rich symbolic imagery. The image of Isis with protective wings around her husband was the most beautiful among them. The picture didn’t come out well in our camera lens, but got encrypted in my memory. 

The Holy cross at the entrance of Philae Temple

Native men dressed in Galapia dress were posing for the foreign cameras as we came out of the shrine. Our guide pointed out an inscription amidst the Egyptian images. A divine cross! Anyway, it wasn’t natural but had inscribed by the Roman invaders. 

The evening breeze had started to blow as we roamed around the shrine. We sat at the edge of the temple in the backdrop of the Nile. In the distance, Nubian islands sidelined the blue waters. Blissful was the feeling to be in that soil for some memorable hours!

Continues in The Evening Rays of Egypt!

Temple of Philae-A Temple for Love!

Continues from Into The lap of Nile

Philae Temple

The afternoon sun shone bright and cloudless as we reached the shores of Nile.  The clear blue sky matched its radiance to the waters. The Felucca started its sail, taking us for the first sail in the Nile.

In the distance, we spotted some islands crowded with rocks. Fatima explained that they are dwelling place of Nubians, the tribal in Egypt. They rarely come out at this time of the day. 

As we were marvelling the unpolluted water of Nile, the water birds hopping on its surface and the Nubian village lining the shores, Fatima started to tell the story of Philae.

Once upon a time, the sky God Geb and the earth goddess Nut had four children: Osiris, Isis, Set and Nephys. Being the eldest and greatest among them, Osiris became the King of Egypt. He married his sister Isis and ruled the kingdom in excellent condition.

The good times didn’t last long. Set, who was jealous of his brother’s glory decided to attack his brother. Set transformed himself into a monster and killed Osiris. In order to prevent the resurrection of Osiris, Set cut Osiris body into different parts and distributed it among many areas in Egypt.

The Entrance to Philae temple with symbolic images of its story

Isis cried continuously over the loss of her husband. However, with the help of Nephys, wife of Set, Isis found out the body parts of Osiris. She assembled the body and with her great magical power blew life into her husband. 

Osiris went to the underworld and started his domain there. The couple had a son named Horace. As Horace grew up, he challenged Set for his rightful throne. After a series of matches, Horace emerged as the winner with the help of his mother Isis and father Osiris.

The temple of Philae is dedicated to Isis, the mother of Gods, Osiris, their son Horace and the family. It seems, the Osiris' body parts laid in the Nubian island across the Nile. The people sometimes tell that the flood in Nile happens when Isis cries for her husband. 

For centuries, the temple remained as the home for worshipers of Isis. The temple now remains as a major tourist spot beholding its majesty.

Continues in Philae Temple-The Creation of God’s Home!

Into the Lap of Nile

 Continues from Papers, Perfumes, Pavement and Passenger

We must have slightly opened the window curtains on the previous night since the morning sun’s rays crept into our little cabinet to wake us in the morning. After being fresh, we opened our window curtains and started enjoying our Egyptian breakfast.

The countryside looked so much similar to our own Kerala, contributing date palms for coconut groves, corn fields for paddy fields, camels for cows and much more. Occasionally we got the glimpses of Nile shining silver in the sooth rays of morning sun. Workers were already in the field, beautifully arranging the red and ripened dates.

Our breakfast tasted so delicious with these splendid views. How much I longed for the morning to halt for long only for this mesmerisation. However, soon the announcement came for reaching the Aswan station. We waited along with a couple in our next door room at the sun lit red corridor.

The couple in our next door room was from Spain and on a six months’ honeymoon to various places. We got down at Aswan and soon said Good bye to each other. Our travel guide took us to the schedule Nile Express Cruise, one of the luxury cruises on sail in the Nile.

Into the lap of Nile!

As we entered the cruise, all of a sudden I had a feeling of concord. Here we are in the lap of crystal clear Nile in a luxurious cruise. It was like living a dream that I had long yearn for!

After the check in formalities, welcome drink and fresh hot towels we were soon shown into our well set room. Our room overlooked the Aswan outside and we soon drew our curtains from the outside world. 

We were about to unpack, when we got the call from the reception. Our visit to the High dam and temple of Philae, which had been scheduled for the next day, should be completed the day itself. The cruise is sailing on the same night and not according to the previous plans. They gave us half an hour to complete our lunch and bath. We hurried to the maximum yet reached half an hour late.

The half an hour delay caused us to forget our plan to visit to high dam. Fatima from the Nubian village was ready to assist us as our guide. On the way, she took us above the high dam and the lower dam just to have glimpses of both. The view was fantastic. 

Across the High Dam

Sitting in the car that drive across the world’s longest river, Fatima told us the story of high dam. It took 10 years to complete the construction of this dam, which determines the life of Egypt. We never knew until then that the river Nile is constituted of two rivers-the White Nile from Sobat River Bahr al-Jabal and Blue Nile from Ethiopian Highlands. 

The first dam of Egypt was constructed in 1889 and raised in 1933. However the man made dam was not able to behold the magnificent Nile in 1946. The work of the high dam was thus started by the mutual help of Soviet Union, in late 1950s. After the relocation of approximately 1 Lakh natives from their homes, reconstruction of historic places and overcoming many other hurdles, the dam got finished in 1970.

Though many resources of Nile diminished with the construction of the dam, it had played a major role in curtailing the annual floods and subsequent damage. The dam also serves as a major source of Egypt’s power supply. The high dam also ensured a smooth sail in the river by keeping a constant water flow!

As we drove above the dam, the view was majestic. The Felucass fluttered on the blue waters on the distance as white dove across the blue sky. Wonderful are the hands of men who captivated the enchanting nature on hold!

Continues inTemple of Philae-A Temple for Love!

Papers, Perfumes, Pavement and Passenger

Continues from The House of wonders, Culture and Generations-Egyptian Museum

Well, we’ve reached the end of the first day in our Egypt tour. Now only three things have left behind-Papyrus, perfumes and the passenger train to Aswan.

At first, our guide took us to Papyrus shop, where they methodically show the papyrus formation.  I remember repeating the method of Papyrus making for my history exams in school days. Here, in this shop, I decide to enjoy the show, leaving behind its intricacies. (For those who wish to know more about Papyrus making, here is a useful link ).

The Papyrus stems looked similar to a wild bush grown in the coasts of Kerala. The Papyrus plants were artistically potted in many places of the shop. Beautiful paintings designed in fine Papyrus sheets adorned the walls. There were many paintings in different hues and shapes. Most of the paintings were taken their inspiration from ancient mythologies. (I learnt later that you can see only the side face of the portraits in Egyptian paintings.)

The Egyptian jewellery section in the first floor was famous for delivering pendants with own names in hieroglyphics. However we had a constraint for the money and got a silver pendant with Shreya’s name in it.

My head was bustling as we headed to the perfume shop. All I wanted to do was to sleep than continuing the trip.  Yes, at times we have no choice but to continue the rhythm. 

As expected the perfume shop was filled with fragrances but, thankfully not to the painful state. We were seated on cushions with a perfume consultant to attend us. I never knew that perfumes are there for other purposes than body care. For example, fume a drop of lotus fragrance in water for peace; a drop of rose extract for harmony; apply the rose extract for confident beauty; vanilla can serve as a welcome; papyrus and some other extract for physical pleasure etc. It was like sitting in Tilo’s¹ shop in California.

Even 100 ml of these specially brewed perfumes were highly expensive. We bought the smallest bottle of lotus extract and still fume the drops at home on special occasions. Trust me; the fragrance is as rejuvenating as said.

Though we bought the smallest bottle, our consultant was very friendly and jovial. After having the hibiscus tea offered by him, we came out. There was still 2 hours prior to our departure to Aswan. It was time for our guide to leave and he showed us into the Four Seasons mall where we can take refreshments. As we bid good bye to him we really felt like parting with a friend.

Enjoying the Evening Nile

The refreshments at the Four Seasons really did me good. It was then; we wanted to explore the evening life at the Cairo pavement. We stood at the banks of Nile and sat on the benches, just to see the foreign lifestyle flowing in front of us. We felt so relaxed and in high spirits of the day that passed.

Soon our driver came along with Ameer to take us to the Cairo Railway Station. Curiously the station looked similar to the ones we see at Bangalore. Sreejith smiled at my comparison and said, “Let’s see.” 

Metro trains in high speed passed us as Ameer told about his family, the party they are having at home etc. Our train came on time and Ameer left us with a wish that he would meet us again after 5 days. 

We entered the train and I was just felt myself in a movie. The door opened to a corridor with red carpet. We were ushered into a private room with a small cupboard, fixed bunk beds, wash basin and a lavatory. Wow, I have never traveled in this much luxury before.

However, I never had much time to marvel these. My feet was tired so as Sreejith’s! After a quick Egyptian dinner, we were ready to drop down. Shreya wanted to play but, we first put her to bed. I don’t even remember touching my pillow that I drifted into a dreamless sleep.

1.    1.   Tilo is the protagonist in Chitra Divakaruni Bannrjee’s novel The Mistress of Spices.  Tilo helps the customers to find love, harmony, peace and joy in life with the different qualities of spices.

Continues in Into the Lap of Nile

The House of wonders, Culture and Generations-Egyptian Museum

 Continues fromInside the Pyramids & In front of the Sphinx

It was time for lunch as we finished our visit at the Pyramids. Our travel guide took us to the nearby local restaurant and helped us to choose from the menu. The unfamiliar flavours started rumbling my already churned stomach.

Still, we hadn’t finished our day trip. After the lunch we headed straight to the Egyptian museum containing 120, 000 items from Egyptian ancestry. The museum was very close to the Hotel Nile where we had stayed till the morning.

Built in 1831, relocated to Ezbekeyah Garden, Boulaq, Giza and finally to Tahirr Square in 1902, the museum remains as the largest of its kind in Egypt. Since photography was prohibited inside the museum, we left it at the counter. We passed the entrance adorned with water lilies and Papyrus plants.

The huge hall was full of activity with tourists from various countries and their guides. Before seeing anything I asked our guide for the directions to the restroom. There, I had to climb many wide stone steps on the right to reach the required room. I threw up and felt relieved after that.

Our travel guide has already started explaining by the time I returned. Again, the initial stories went above my dizzy head. He must have noticed that and gave me a riddle to solve about Queen Hatshepsut and her successor. I tried it and failed. He smiled at my confusion, “You’ll learn it before you leave Egypt. Queen Hatshepsut’s temple is in your travel list."

We had finished many artefacts in the ground floor, before our guide led us to King Tutankhamun’s collection. On the way he said as an apology, "It takes days to explain on each artefact in the museum. Sorry that I am showing you the tip of an iceberg."

The first thing I noticed entering the first floor is three huge golden tombs. Our guide explained that King Tutankhamun’s Mummy had laid inside these tombs while discovered from the Valley of Kings. However, many artefacts from the tomb were stolen not late after his burial. What we see as magnificent is only a part of many other things that were stolen apart.

The famous mask of King Tutankhamen sat in a glass chamber next to the tombs. The mask is made of 11Kg of solid gold and believed to represent the actual face of the King. Guides were not allowed inside the chamber of King Tutankhamun’s personal belongings. We roamed the room by our own wondering at the beauty, precision and price with which the artefacts were made off.

As we came out our guide just asked, “How was it?” We were speechless. He told, “The day King Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered, the man behind the exploration-Howard Carter- was also stunned. He heard to be said that of the day of days it was the most wonderful that he had ever lived through, and certainly one whose like he could never hope to see again”

Indeed! Who can have many such days in one life?

After the visit at many artifacts we reached the session that anyone wish to see on their visit to Egypt-the chamber of Mummies. Again, the room was restricted only for tourists and our guide instructed us about them. There were about nine mummies on display including the last found mummy of Queen Hatshepsut.

We entered the room with so much anticipation. Personally, I was imagining beautiful mummies in golden colour. I have never been to a mortuary before and quite shocked by the row of mummies in glass chambers. Mummies of nine Pharaohs over the centuries lay in claret wraps. They looked so ghastly and I didn’t feel like looking at them again. Yet, they were the world famous mummies and we had paid E£250 just for this!

On a close look again, I couldn’t help admiring the medical aids employed in preserving these bodies over the centuries. The teeth of the mummies were white and intact. The black hair of mummies looked black and alive like mine. Yet, I was feeling cold and nightmarish in the chamber of Mummies.

We came out after half an hour spent at the Mummies' chamber. Our museum trip was at the end, leaving out many artefacts, their stories, histories and secrets. As I came out, I looked up at the museum’s roof. “Yes, held your head high. You’ve all rights for it. You not only preserve a culture, become home for wonders and host millions of visitors but; also stood as a mother for a country who constantly admires their roots.”

Afterword: On one morning show of January 2011, I immediately recognized the gates of Egyptian museum at Cairo. Yes, they were the days of Egyptian revolution 2011. The news said that looters broke into the museum and destroyed some artifacts including two mummies.  I saw military wagons, black fumes and the burnt out road, where I had once casually walked! There was a pain in my heart for sure... All I could do was to pray for the good people whom we had met in that journey and who never left a contact for us to pursue...

Continues inPapers, Perfumes, Pavement and Passenger

Inside the Pyramids & In front of the Sphinx

Continues from Pyramids, Pyramids, Pyramids & Pyramids......... 

 

Shreya in the backdrop of three Pyramids

After our visit at the Pyramids of Giza, our guide led us to the plateau where we can get a magnificent view of the three Pyramids together and later can enter the Pyramid of Menkaure. The Sun was definitely blazing above us as we smiled for the photos in the backdrop of Pyramids. However we never noticed the heat, as the experience was once in a lifetime. 

Behind us the plateau stretched in hot silver sand. This is where Aishwarya Rai walked in Egyptian costume in the movie ‘Jeans’. Katrina Kaif and Akshay Kumar had the most romantic scenes in “Singh is King” at this very burning sand.

Camel Ride

As we looked again, we were spell bound by the magnificent giants. The camels next to the Pyramids seemed like ants. It was then our guide pointed some riding camels for us. We soon jumped up. It was the first camel ride for three of us. Shreya enjoyed till the end when she started stretching her baby lips. After a tough bargaining and shopping at the Souvenir sellers we headed straight to the Pyramid of Menkaure.

Photography and children were strictly prohibited at the Pyramid of Menkaure. I and Shreya waited at the narrow descending staircase when Sreejith went inside. Being claustrophobic, I started to get nervous as time lapsed. Though concerned about my claustrophobia, Sreejith advised me to take a trip inside on his return.

Steep and narrow steps lead me downwards. I had to bend low while descending, owing to the stone roofs cast so low to the steps. At the end of the stairs was a narrow passage covered on both sides by huge stones. I was skeptical on whether to go further.

Again at the end of the passage was narrow steps ascending. I decided to take the steps and ascended bending low. I was at a loss when I found a little wider passage at the end of the steps. I was breathless and started to run towards the end of the passage. I was not in a mood to give up after going through these many narrow paths. 

The narrow passage ended at the King Menkaure’s burial chamber.  A guide was waiting there to give information for the visitors.  The first thing he said me was:

“Here, have some water. You were running for something and breathless now!”

I thankfully sat at the edge of the big hole on the ground where King Menkaure’s mummy was once laid in golden chambers. The room was vast and cool. The guide updated me of King Menkaure’s mummy, its move to the museum etc. Honestly, not a word captured by my troubled mind at that time. I thanked him when he asked me for the tip. I didn’t have the wallet with me and frankly told him so. “No problem, welcome back!” he said.

The return to the entrance was more tedious since more visitors were coming down. However as I reached back, I was feeling as if I got the life back.  My insides were churning and I was actually feeling exhausted.

Sphinx

On the way back, we finally stopped in front of the Sphinx.  The largest monolith statue in the world of the mythical creature with the lion’s body and man’s face laid in front of the pyramids in full glory. Long been worshiped as the guiding God, Philosopher, protector and creator of great ancient Egypt, Sphinx anyway went under sleep beneath the sand layers till 1400 BC.

The young King Thutmose IV had a dream about Sphinx in 1400 BC and somehow dug out the front paws of the Sphinx. Later Ramesses II the great conducted the second excavation in 13^th century B.C. In 1817, e a team supervised by Italian captain Giovanni Battista Caviglia excavated till the chest of the sphinx. The Sphinx was completely resurrected in 1936 owing to the excavations of a team led by Emile Baraize.

Our guide asked us to look closer at the Sphinx. Yes, something was missing on the Sphinx-The nose! There are many tales regarding the destruction of Sphinx’ nose from a native rebel, Napoleon, British troops, Mamluks and others. However, our guide believed the story of Alexander the great taking off the Sphinx’ nose.

Here, he answered our question, asked in the beginning of the day, “ Alexander the Great’s Pyramid is not yet discovered. Moreover look at the destructed structures in front of the Pyramids. They are the Pyramids Pyramids for Hensutsen, mother of Khafre, Merites, the sister and wife of Khufu and Redjedef, Khufu’s wife. There are umpteen such Pyramids yet not discovered. It is not in vain that they call our land, a land of mysteries and wonders!”

Continues in The House of wonders, Culture and Generations-Egyptian Museum