Saturday, January 29, 2011

A Romantic Stroll at Thiruvannamalai

Continues From The Dance Of Peacocks

The big wedding was over with a lot of living experiences. After three months of honeymoon siesta, we’d started our real life. It was then that I remembered of my promise to visit Thiruvannamalai after my marriage.
I and Sreejith accompanied with my friends started our journey on a Friday afternoon. The journey seemed more comfortable in the car. After five hours of drive, we reached Thiruvannamalai around 8p.m. Since we were a gang with the couple, our accommodation was allotted outside the Ashramam, but in a comfortable way.

This is a place where I discovered some other aspects of Sreejith. I always considered him aloof to spiritual matters. However, he was the first to wake up in the morning to get ready to go to Arunachaleswara temple. We reached the temple for the early Darshan itself.  

During this visit to Arunachaleswara temple, my mind somehow remained blank without any prayers.

On Our Way To Skandashramam
As we reached back to the Ashramam, the breakfast had started. After a short time spends at the Ashramam, we started to Skandashramam. The trip seemed more like a picnic as we stopped for photos, chit chat etc.
As we reached Skandashramam, I retreated to the shade of mango tree rather than entering the shrine. I don’t know how much time I spent in contemplation there! When I went inside to see what others were doing, I saw Sreejith in deep meditation in front of the shrine. (At first, I thought that he is dozing off)  Reluctant to wake them up, I came back to my retreat.

Soon, all of us continued our way down to Virupaksha cave. The path was dirtier than early owing to the increase in number of devotees during Karthikai deepam. No great miracles happened at this time and we enjoyed our journey watching small flowers, insects and butterflies.

After lunch at the Ashramam, we came back to the room for a nap. However I and Sreejith woke up early and went to the small vendors. Priya, Poonam and Anurupa were not interested in the Vadas and Bhajjis sold out by these vendors. I and Sreejith savored more than what we consume! The hot Bhajjis and Vadas sold for one rupee or 50 paise felt so long lasting on our taste buds.

Giri Pradakshinam was indeed different this time. For me, it was indeed a romantic stroll along with Sreejith. It was a carefree and tension free evening devoid of intriguing phone calls! He stopped in between to get prasadams from Anna Dana (Giving food for free for God’s sake) and to enjoy whatever interested him on the way.

Karthikai Deepam at Thiruvannamalai
Soon darkness started falling onto the air. The Karthikai deepam was shining so bright on the abode of Arunachaleswara.  Unlike the controversial Makara Jyothi, this is indeed lit by human beings to spread the benevolence of Arunachaleswara to the world. 

We had intended to take a short road around the hill and reached the temple earlier than usual. We were planning to start as early as possible on the next day.   As I bowed in front of the temple, I prayed
                  
  I don’t know when you call me again. But be with me always!

Afterword: I still wonder about one fact-I was in Pondicherry for three years and never heard about this place! My guide for M.Phil was an ardent devotee of Remana Maharshi and given up all her worldly comforts for his love. Then also, I was in darkness about this place! The time had come for my call only at the destined moment.

Later, while in labor, I was chanting ‘Krishna’. But the image that flashed behind my closed eyelids was that of Arunachaleswara. Is it an implication that the power that we call by different names is one and the same?

The Dance of Peacocks

Continues From Giri Pradakshinam
The visit to Skandashramam, Virupaksha cave and Giri Pradakshinam on the previous day had drained us from the physical strength. I don’t remember when I touched the bed, when I woke up late in the earning.
Peacocks at Remanashramam

After prayers and breakfast, we roamed around the Ashramam. I and Poonam were so fascinated by the peahens in the ashram and we fretted after them to take photos. We were losing hope to find a peacock, lest see it dance! It was then Mohan came to us.

                          Don’t go after the peacocks, go after the Bhagawan!

I and Poonam felt definitely intimidated. Anyway, it was one another meeting with a devotee of Ramana Maharshi. Mohan was overflowing with his devotion as he explained his experiences. He reluctantly gave away his name as devotees of Remana believe that there is nothing in a name! 

We went to the meditation hall after that. For a person like me, who still doesn’t understand the ‘m’ of meditation, the place definitely felt like a brooding place. I came out and sat at the entrance of temple and watched a woman keeping watch for her sleeping grandchild near Remana Maharishi’s Samadhi. 

I was so lost in the innocence of the sleeping baby that Priya had to call me for lunch. Soon after the lunch, we packed our belongings and came back to Ashramam. It was so hot outside and the sand of the Ashramam burnt under our bare feet. We prayed at the temple and came out. What did I see???

Another view of a Peacock
The hot sun was getting covered by dark clouds! All of a sudden four peacocks came to the terrace in front of the temple accompanied by a white peacock. Then, they started! The majestic dance lasted for 15 minutes. I stood there in full awe!

As soon as the dance ended, I understood the call. I went back to the temple and bowed

 “I understand and accept this truth. This is a place where simple wishes can get granted in a mysterious way. At least I’ve felt a pulse of the highly powerful spiritual vibrations of this place. There is no wonder to call this place as the spiritual center of the world. I will visit this place again, when the call comes on my way.”

Continues in A Romantic Stroll At Thiruvannamalai

Giri Pradakshinam (The Devotional Prayer around the Hill)




The Thiruvannamalai or the hill of Thiruvanmiyur is believed to be Lord Shiva himself. 

Long ago, there arose a dispute between Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahman on who is superior. Lord Shiva agreed to be the supreme judge. He became a mountain of fire and asked both the disputers to find the top and bottom of the fire. Whoever finds it first will be superior to other.

Both Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahman started their search. After a long search Lord Brahman found a flower of screw pine falling downwards. He found out that the flower is falling for thousands of four-fold Yugas from the crest of the fire. Lord Brahman asked the flower to lie with him that they had traveled down together and he had seen the crest of the fire.

However, Lord Brahman could not take in omniscient Lord Shiva with his falsehood.  As a punishment, Lord Shiva condemned him that he wouldn’t be worshiped in any temple and the false witness of screw pine cannot find a place in his crown too.

In the meanwhile Lord Vishnu had meditated and humbled by his devotion. Now, both Lord Vishnu and Lord Brahman prayed to Lord Shiva to abide his presence in the place forever. In an answer to their prayer Lord Shiva established himself as the Arunachaleswara hill and also as Tejo Lingam at the eastern foot of the hill. Also , the ‘Ashta Dikpalalakas’ prayed to Lord Shiva and worshiped him in 8 Lingams- Indra Lingam, Agni Lingam, Vayu Lingam, Varuna Lingam, Niruthi Lingam, Yama Lingam, Kubera Lingam and the Isaanya Lingam- around  the hill.

                                                                     ************

On the second evening at Thiruvannamalai, We planned to do ‘giri vallam’ to complete our pilgrimage.  We started our journey with devout minds from the door of Arunachaleswara temple.  Being the first visitors to this place, we decided to take the complete ‘giri vallam’ of 18 kilometres by visiting the Asthalingas too.

We had barely visited the first two temples that we started checking the kilometres ahead to us.  Soon after the visit to the third temple, chanting started to wear off from my lips. After one or two kilometres, our bare foot started pulling us back. The concentration entirely shifted to the pain on my feet after the visit to the Varuna Lingam.

A View From Giri Vallam
Poonam and Priya enjoyed the initial stroll feeding the stray dogs with biscuits. I and Anurupa kept the safe distance from their pampering sessions.  

I between these, I kept on checking my mobile. My betrothed had called and spoke to me for two hours on the day of my arrival at Thiruvannamalai. (It was indeed a miracle for me since he never used to call me or talk more than two minutes over the phone). The lack of calls irked me and I really prayed to Arunachaleswara to give me answer to the question that dominated my mind-Should I go with this proposal and get married to the guy?

My confusion and question to the Arunachaleswara made me forget the physical uneasiness. Soon, darkness spread over the sky and stars started to shine over the mountains. Arunachaleswara appeared as a mighty elephant to me. My mind vibrated with ‘Om Namashivaya’ to Priya’s chanting. Priya’s constant answers to the questions regarding the distance became monotonous “You’ve to walk a little more! Think of God and nothing else. Don’t think of the distance.”

A lot of aged devotees passed us. It was then that Priya told us the incident of superstar Rajinikanth. Though an ardent devotee of Arunachaleswara, he never can do Giri vallam due to the fear of mob. Once he attempted ‘Giri vallam’ in disguise but couldn’t complete it since people recognized him. However a commoner got the luck of taking him on his bike.

Giri vallam got thornier as we reached Isaanya Lingam. The dirt in the city started troubling us just as some funny men who walked around. We were sighing in relief as we reached the door of Arunachaleswara temple once again. Priya asked us whether we would like to go inside and pray. The answer came unanimously:

                              “NO”

 We were fatigued and famished to the extreme. However, as we reached the gates of Saravana Bhavan, I got the answers to the long standing question before getting the plate of food. There came a bridal procession in its full glory with the newlyweds smiling in full glee. Yes, my prayers have been heard and answered. All the confusion lifted from my mind and I could just close my eyes in prayer of Arunachaleswara to promise him that I would visit this place again with my husband!
 Continues in The Dance Of Peacocks

Wednesday, January 26, 2011

The Divine Voice of ‘Aum...’

The ashramites were performing Remana’s Abhishekam in its full glory as we reached the Ashramam.  The Vedic mantras and Bhajans seemed to purify the crystal clean air. Soon after the rituals, we were invited to have the Ashramam breakfast. The hot Idlies and Sambar were served on the dried and sewn leaves. As I tasted the delicious breakfast, I wondered whether the so called nectar in heaven comes in the form of Idlies and Sambar too!

After breakfast, we decided to go to Skandashramam. We climbed the Arunachaleswara, where in each stone one can find divinity. The hill itself is believed to be Lord Shiva. The soft breeze eased out the initial breathlessness that I usually feel while trekking.  On the way, a majestic view of Arunachaleswara temple revived our spirits.  The wilderness made the path cool, even amidst the scorching summer.
(At the entrance of Skandashramam)

 A group of monkeys jumped around the peaceful outskirts of Skandashramam. As we neared the Skandashramam, we heard the beautiful Bhajans that aptly suited to the ambience. However I didn’t get the mood to meditate inside the shrine. I came out and waited under the mango tree and watched the sun rays sweeping through its foliage. That’s then; I heard the murmur of a natural spring next to the cave of Ashramam. I was definitely feeling thirsty and the refreshing and cool water passed a new energy to me.

After the visit to Skandashramam, we took a downward road to the Virupaksha cave. It was there the Saint Virupaksha Deva and later Ramana Maharshi lived in meditation.  Ramana Maharshi had written his early works like Self-Inquiry and Who am I? while meditating in this cave. Naturally for his followers, the cave provided a place for deep meditation.

(One the way to Virupaksha Cave)
The cave was naturally cool inside. However the fumes of incense sticks and the claustrophobia, gradually took me outside. I came out and sat on the small wall leaning on to a Neem tree. All the visitors apart from us had left the place. I almost felt sure that my spiritual inquest to this place had become futile.

The sun was getting hot! Anurupa came out of the cave and sat on the other end of the wall.  After some time Priya came out and sat next to me. We didn’t speak anything and wandered in our own contemplations. We heard Poonam chanting the divine mantra of ‘Aum’ inside the cave.  I and Priya smiled at each other! Surely, the mantra has some power to invigorate our soul.

Soon Poonam came out of the cave. We treaded through the path where the beauty of Arunachaleswara was getting lost! People have used the place for their nature’s calls! Poonam must have fed up with the path and she started chanting ‘Allah’! Though I don’t abhor Islam, I somehow felt that chanting unfit for this situation!
  If there are some people around, they might beat you up for chanting ‘Allah’ in temple premises.  Why don’t you chant ‘Aum’ as you did at Virupaksha cave?
Poonam was in a good mood and didn’t take offense at my prattle. She laughed,
Take it easy! By the way I didn’t chant ‘Aum’ at Virupaksha cave. I was meditating.
I and Priya just stared at each other. We had definitely heard the chanting. Now, Anurupa who was sitting with us across the yard and at the door of Virupaksha cave denied that she had heard the chanting. There was not a single person near the Ashramam. Then whose chanting did we hear? Poonam consoled us,
My master had once told, ‘When your mind is calm and free of outward thoughts you can hear the voice that calls for you.’
This incident still remains as a mystery for me. If the voice had definitely called out for us, then I should think- ‘Who am I?’
           
    Afterword: Being a resident of Riyadh, now I realize an interesting relation between ‘Allah’ and ‘Aum’. My  Yoga teacher had taught me that ‘Aum’ has to be chanted in three parts concentrating on out three body areas. Interestingly, the priests in the neighboring mosques also recite ‘Allah’ in the same tone. After repeating ‘Allah’ in their style, I realized that it gives the same rejuvenating feeling as ‘Aum.’
   

Arunachaleswara Temple




My first morning at Thiruvannamalai started with a little surprise for me. For a person like me, the wake up calls at 4 am always brings forth headaches. I preferred the morning hours for nothing other than sleep. However, when I woke up at 4 am without any wake up calls; I was as fresh as if waking up from a deep sleep.

When the morning shower refreshed my body, Priya’s melodious Bhajans gave a new freshness to my mind.  We were out of the Ashram gates in the early morning hours to pay our first visit to Arunachaleswara temple. The morning wind revived our spirits as we travelled to the temple located just 5 kilometres away from the Remanashramam.

I was spell bound as I reached the eastern Gopuram (fort) of Arunachaleswara temple.  Built in the 9th and the 10th centuries by the Chola Kings, the temple’s entrance itself claimed the unique experience that’s waiting inside.  

The temple was still not opened as we entered it. We waited outside the main shrine. Soon we heard the tinkling of bells from the shores of temple pond. The divine cow was entering with full adornments to wake up Lord Shiva. People clustered near the gates that were ready to open. The cow came and stood facing the door, as if in a prayer. As told by someone who stood next to us, we bought little grass from a lady and fed the holy cow.1
 
The morning wind gushed past us as we entered the temple. We waited in the special queue for the Darshan. As we got out from the shrine, there began the music for the divine marriage. They were singing for the wedding of Lord Shiva and goddess Parvathi.  It was a special treat for me, who was betrothed at that time.

The sun rays were getting hot as we passed the abandoned 1000 pillared hall of the temple. The doves have started taking rest under the majestic shade of the Gopuras. As I passed Nandikeshwara, I just paused for a moment to marvel his divine bliss. Nandikeshwara is destined to have eternal devotion to Lord Shiva and completely amalgamates with his Lord in devotion. What else should one need than the oneness with the God?

1. We are still not sure whether they have fooled us with the then invented custom.

Continues in The Divine Aum