The Valley of Workers and Colosssi of Memnon

Continues from The Woman Power in Ancient Egypt-Queen Hatshepsut

The visit to queen Hatshepsut’s temple had brought severe burns on our skin. I had had enough of the trip and looked forward to get back home. Wait; there are two more places to visit-the valley of workers and the Colossi of Memnon.

The ruins at the Valley of workers

The valley of workers was deserted as we reached the place. This was the place where the builders of the ancient representations of Egypt had once lived! This place must have been crowded with echoes, laughter, pangs and all other human emotions in those days.

The Pharaohs used to start the construction of their tombs during their lifetime itself. For this, they used to bring the artisans from faraway places and provided the workers with shelter, food and necessary needs. The works of the tomb might go for a lifetime and the workers started to have their own families in Egypt.

Soon, the first arrivals started to get old, and for their after death rituals, they started to construct miniature tombs resembling their masters. Often, the worker who leads the other workers used to get these master tombs. Some of them are still well preserved for the coming generation to witness their pride.

Entrance to the tomb

I was determined not to get out of the car as we reach the valley of workers. Enough had been seen and no more troll under the blazing sun. Some tombs stood amidst the ruins of old houses. They mimicked the shape of pyramids and looked as anthills compared to the majestic Pyramids.

We got down and waited at the lounge while Nariman went to get the tickets.  I had asked her not to get the tickets for me. But, she returned with the tickets for both of us and offered a hand in taking care of Shreya. Well, that was a relief indeed. 

We went down into the tomb that again resembled the tombs that we had visited at the Valley of Kings. The main difference was that this tomb was smaller in its area and had fewer paintings on its walls. As I came out, my imagination prompted me even to get the smell of sweat in that tomb!

We drove back to the comfort of the hotel and stopped on the way at the Colossi of Memnon. The twin statues of the Pharaoh Amenhotep III made in quartzite sandstone sat majestically in an otherwise barren land.  The hero of the Trojan war, who got ultimately killed by Achilles always invoked his subjects even after his death.

Colossi of Memnon

It seems, quite synonymous with his name Memnon, which means “Ruler of the Dawn,” the statue used to make sound in the early mornings. Many people considered it as the voice of Memnon’s ghost while others attributed scientific reasons for that. However Memnon stopped singing lately. Now, the statues are abode for many fluttering doves. As we looked on, the doves continued their routine not even caring for the umpteen visitors who gazed at their home in reverence.

Continues in The Stroll in the Streets of Egypt

The Woman Power in Ancient Egypt-Queen Hatshepsut

 Continues from The Valley of Kings!

We were driving to the temple of Queen Hatshepsut, when Nariman told us the story of the only one powerful woman Pharaoh in Egypt. Queen Hatshepsut was the sister and first wife of King Thutmose II. After the death of the King she claimed the throne replacing her child nephew/step son Thutmose III.

Queen Hatshepsut’s twenty year’s rule was a golden era in Egyptian history. Trading and economy flourished, temples were restored or newly constructed and Egyptian culture flourished to a new realm. However the good times didn’t last longer. Her nephew, Thutmose III, also known as "the Napoleon of ancient Egypt,” had married Queen Hatshepsut’s daughter and rose into power.

Thutmose III started wiping off the signs of Queen Hatshepsut from Egypt.  He cut her names away from the temple walls and destroyed the monuments constructed by her. However, Queen Hatshepsut’s charisma prevailed over these wile activities. 

We reached Queen Hatshepsut’s temple at Deir el Bahri by noon. The burning sun competed with my idea to visit the temple. I finally got down from the car.

In front of

Queen Hatshepsut’s temple

Queen Hatshepsut’s temple was indeed a token for the female Pharaoh’s power. Standing in the higher realms of desert plain in a series of terraces, the temple beheld its majesty. A root of the tree once brought by Queen Hatshepsut from Punt during an expedition was covered and exhibited at the temple entrance.

The temple looked synonymous with the heat reflecting limestone cliffs around it. Nature must have lent its hand in the construction of this temple. 

Woman Power: In front of

Queen Hatshepsut’s statue

The monuments of the female Pharaoh arrayed the temple corridors. However, in comparison with the other temples that we had visited, the temple was smaller in its area.  The walls depicted many expeditions of Queen Hatshepsut, whose names and face have been erased at many places.

After some minutes of visit, we came out. The temple overlooked green fields and hills at the opposite side. They seemed to be a mirage at that point and a token of the contradicting culture that we might never comprehend!

 Continues in The Valley of Workers and Colosssi of Memnon

Karnak Temple: The Most Perfect of Places

Continues from The Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves 
 

When we woke up in the morning, the cruise had come to the final halt. On the day, we would visit two of the most famous temples in Egypt-Luxor and Karnak temple.

Our travel guide Nariman was waiting for us at the front desk. After ten minutes drive, we reached Karnak, a sacred place of built since the 30^th dynasty in Egypt.

Nariman first guided us to the miniature presentation of Karnak temple at the main entrance. A glimpse at the miniature presentation revealed that we had no chance to view the entire temple. Nariman explained that we would be visiting a part of the Eastern section of the temple.

The sun seethed on the visitors at the temple yard. It was really a challenge to step onto the yard under the blazing sun. Yet, we ventured it and the result was worth it.

Entrance to Karnak Temple

Ramesses II

Human headed Sphinx Avenue welcomed us before the huge colossal gates.  Each sphinx cradled a Pharaoh under them. The Sphinx heads were created in the image of God Amun Ra, who had presided in the temple. At the entrance were the two huge statues of Ramesses II with his hands crossed on his chest. Nariman explained that the action signified the dead status of the King.

Close image of the Sphinx

We entered the temple with its ruined mud yards and an array of sphinxes on its side. Many visitors were trying different poses in front of it. There was a woman jumping with joy in front of the sphinxes while her husband tried to capture the moment behind the lens.

We passed many headless statues on the corridor before reaching the many pillared hall. Nariman explained the invaders were adamant in removing the Pagan tradition and beheaded many of the statues. Many of the statues were faceless, nose less and ear less owing to the invasions. 

The many pillared hall of the temple displayed pillars designed with Papyrus and lotus like the pillars of Philae, Edfu and Kom Ombo. The pillars in the precinct of Amun were free standing and had inscriptions all around them. 

The Rising Sun Obelisk

There was a beautiful obelisk belonged to Queen Hatshepsut behind the pillars on whose tip the Sun always seemed to raise on the day time. There had another one belonged to the Queen but toppled by her nephew Thutmosis III.

The Scarab Beetle

Nariman left us at the temple pond to have a look by ourselves. There was a pylon with a huge structure of Scarab-beetle on it. For many years Egyptians worshiped the scarab beetle for its association with the creator God Amun. They had believed that the beetle pushed the Sun around the planet to ensure fertility for the country. 

We came out in exhilarated and exhausted at the same time. We have to head to Luxor temple soon. The Sun’s rays blinded us, yet we wanted to!

Continues in Luxor Temple: The Dazzling Preservation of a Culture

The House of wonders, Culture and Generations-Egyptian Museum

 Continues fromInside the Pyramids & In front of the Sphinx

It was time for lunch as we finished our visit at the Pyramids. Our travel guide took us to the nearby local restaurant and helped us to choose from the menu. The unfamiliar flavours started rumbling my already churned stomach.

Still, we hadn’t finished our day trip. After the lunch we headed straight to the Egyptian museum containing 120, 000 items from Egyptian ancestry. The museum was very close to the Hotel Nile where we had stayed till the morning.

Built in 1831, relocated to Ezbekeyah Garden, Boulaq, Giza and finally to Tahirr Square in 1902, the museum remains as the largest of its kind in Egypt. Since photography was prohibited inside the museum, we left it at the counter. We passed the entrance adorned with water lilies and Papyrus plants.

The huge hall was full of activity with tourists from various countries and their guides. Before seeing anything I asked our guide for the directions to the restroom. There, I had to climb many wide stone steps on the right to reach the required room. I threw up and felt relieved after that.

Our travel guide has already started explaining by the time I returned. Again, the initial stories went above my dizzy head. He must have noticed that and gave me a riddle to solve about Queen Hatshepsut and her successor. I tried it and failed. He smiled at my confusion, “You’ll learn it before you leave Egypt. Queen Hatshepsut’s temple is in your travel list."

We had finished many artefacts in the ground floor, before our guide led us to King Tutankhamun’s collection. On the way he said as an apology, "It takes days to explain on each artefact in the museum. Sorry that I am showing you the tip of an iceberg."

The first thing I noticed entering the first floor is three huge golden tombs. Our guide explained that King Tutankhamun’s Mummy had laid inside these tombs while discovered from the Valley of Kings. However, many artefacts from the tomb were stolen not late after his burial. What we see as magnificent is only a part of many other things that were stolen apart.

The famous mask of King Tutankhamen sat in a glass chamber next to the tombs. The mask is made of 11Kg of solid gold and believed to represent the actual face of the King. Guides were not allowed inside the chamber of King Tutankhamun’s personal belongings. We roamed the room by our own wondering at the beauty, precision and price with which the artefacts were made off.

As we came out our guide just asked, “How was it?” We were speechless. He told, “The day King Tutankhamun’s tomb was discovered, the man behind the exploration-Howard Carter- was also stunned. He heard to be said that of the day of days it was the most wonderful that he had ever lived through, and certainly one whose like he could never hope to see again”

Indeed! Who can have many such days in one life?

After the visit at many artifacts we reached the session that anyone wish to see on their visit to Egypt-the chamber of Mummies. Again, the room was restricted only for tourists and our guide instructed us about them. There were about nine mummies on display including the last found mummy of Queen Hatshepsut.

We entered the room with so much anticipation. Personally, I was imagining beautiful mummies in golden colour. I have never been to a mortuary before and quite shocked by the row of mummies in glass chambers. Mummies of nine Pharaohs over the centuries lay in claret wraps. They looked so ghastly and I didn’t feel like looking at them again. Yet, they were the world famous mummies and we had paid E£250 just for this!

On a close look again, I couldn’t help admiring the medical aids employed in preserving these bodies over the centuries. The teeth of the mummies were white and intact. The black hair of mummies looked black and alive like mine. Yet, I was feeling cold and nightmarish in the chamber of Mummies.

We came out after half an hour spent at the Mummies' chamber. Our museum trip was at the end, leaving out many artefacts, their stories, histories and secrets. As I came out, I looked up at the museum’s roof. “Yes, held your head high. You’ve all rights for it. You not only preserve a culture, become home for wonders and host millions of visitors but; also stood as a mother for a country who constantly admires their roots.”

Afterword: On one morning show of January 2011, I immediately recognized the gates of Egyptian museum at Cairo. Yes, they were the days of Egyptian revolution 2011. The news said that looters broke into the museum and destroyed some artifacts including two mummies.  I saw military wagons, black fumes and the burnt out road, where I had once casually walked! There was a pain in my heart for sure... All I could do was to pray for the good people whom we had met in that journey and who never left a contact for us to pursue...

Continues inPapers, Perfumes, Pavement and Passenger