Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Luxor Temple: The Dazzling Preservation of a Culture



We reached Luxor temple in the mid afternoon. It is a sacred place of wonderful architecture built since 1550 B.C. The afternoon heat scorched on our thickly tanned bodies. Yet, we wanted to visit the last temple in our itinerary.

Entrance to Luxor Temple
The massive entrance pylon built by Rameses II welcomed us. Two colossal seated statues of Ramesse edged the entrance in all grace. There was one obelisk on the left side of the entrance with names of Ramesses II, Horace, Amun and the King’s favourite Gods on each vertical side. However, the space for Obelisk on the right side was vacant. Nariman explained that the obelisk had been carried to France and now can be seen at Place de la Concorde, in Paris.

Headless Statues of Luxor temple
We entered the Luxor temple. Just inside the temple was a mosque built over the ruins. Compared to the other Egyptian temples that we had already visited, Luxor was in a less preserved state. Arrays of headless statues stood around the courtyard. 
Roman Mural

It seems invaders considered Luxor temple as a catch for them. The Roman invaders made the temple and its surroundings as a fortress for the Roman government. There was one Roman mural on the temple wall depicting the Christian devotees.

Nariman ushered us to the court of Amenhotop II. A better preserved area in the temple, it was flanked by double rows of Papyrus columns with bud capitals. The reliefs on both sides of the hall depicted Amenhotop II's coronation by the Gods.

Nariman left us there to admire the beautiful architecture by ourselves. We roamed around the yard of the Theban triad-Amun, Mut and Chons. This is the same place where ancient Egyptians gathered to praise their protectors and celebrated the famous Opet festival. This is where, the Christians had raised their church and Muslims later conducted their prayers. 

Sphinx Avenue
Yet, there was not much for our eyes in the temple and we came out. We were soon led to the Sphinx Avenue that once led all the way to the Karnak temple. The sphinxes still remained in better condition.

It was time for us to retreat to our cruise. We relished the welcome drink and the wet towels offered as we’d entered the boat. There was a relaxing afternoon ahead us to get prepared for next day’s travel.

Continues in The Valley of Kings!

Sunday, September 11, 2011

Karnak Temple: The Most Perfect of Places

Continues from The Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves 
 
When we woke up in the morning, the cruise had come to the final halt. On the day, we would visit two of the most famous temples in Egypt-Luxor and Karnak temple.

Our travel guide Nariman was waiting for us at the front desk. After ten minutes drive, we reached Karnak, a sacred place of built since the 30th dynasty in Egypt.

Nariman first guided us to the miniature presentation of Karnak temple at the main entrance. A glimpse at the miniature presentation revealed that we had no chance to view the entire temple. Nariman explained that we would be visiting a part of the Eastern section of the temple.

The sun seethed on the visitors at the temple yard. It was really a challenge to step onto the yard under the blazing sun. Yet, we ventured it and the result was worth it.

Entrance to Karnak Temple
Ramesses II
Human headed Sphinx Avenue welcomed us before the huge colossal gates.  Each sphinx cradled a Pharaoh under them. The Sphinx heads were created in the image of God Amun Ra, who had presided in the temple. At the entrance were the two huge statues of Ramesses II with his hands crossed on his chest. Nariman explained that the action signified the dead status of the King.

Close image of the Sphinx
We entered the temple with its ruined mud yards and an array of sphinxes on its side. Many visitors were trying different poses in front of it. There was a woman jumping with joy in front of the sphinxes while her husband tried to capture the moment behind the lens.

We passed many headless statues on the corridor before reaching the many pillared hall. Nariman explained the invaders were adamant in removing the Pagan tradition and beheaded many of the statues. Many of the statues were faceless, nose less and ear less owing to the invasions. 

The many pillared hall of the temple displayed pillars designed with Papyrus and lotus like the pillars of Philae, Edfu and Kom Ombo. The pillars in the precinct of Amun were free standing and had inscriptions all around them. 

The Rising Sun Obelisk
There was a beautiful obelisk belonged to Queen Hatshepsut behind the pillars on whose tip the Sun always seemed to raise on the day time. There had another one belonged to the Queen but toppled by her nephew Thutmosis III.

The Scarab Beetle
Nariman left us at the temple pond to have a look by ourselves. There was a pylon with a huge structure of Scarab-beetle on it. For many years Egyptians worshiped the scarab beetle for its association with the creator God Amun. They had believed that the beetle pushed the Sun around the planet to ensure fertility for the country. 

We came out in exhilarated and exhausted at the same time. We have to head to Luxor temple soon. The Sun’s rays blinded us, yet we wanted to!


Continues in Luxor Temple: The Dazzling Preservation of a Culture

Sunday, September 4, 2011

The Nile: Unsurpassed Expressions of Waves

Continues from Into the Domain of Hawk-Edfu Temple

We reached the cruise earlier than the Spanish tourists returned! There was ample time to take rest before the evening tea. As we were getting into the room, the guy from the spa came out and greeted us. Definitely, I got interested in the guy, who acutely resembled Harry Potter with his  round glasses, girlish grin and disheveled hair. After a conversation with him, both of us decided to get a spa treatment with the arrangement of each of taking turn to take care of Shreya. 

It was evening by the time we finished our spa treatments. The cruise had already started its sail by the time we went to the upper deck for tea. The sun had started his descend for the day, turning the waves of Nile into dark black.

The mist stretched across the water. We took our cups of tea and went to the forefront seats on the terrace. We immediately regretted! The tea instantly turned cold and the chilling wind started to sweep on our face. Little Shreya grinned in merry with the chill weather.

A Cruise in the Nile
It was then that we noticed the other cruise sailing behind us. Our cruise manager explained that they always travel in a convoy mode in watch for some emergencies.

Nile after the Sunset
Life flew on both sides of the Nile. A group of water birds headed in hurry towards their destination. The sun would sink at any moment and night cover the activities on the water. As if in a hurry to complete the day duties, the waves in the Nile fluttered frantically. At last the sun sank! The waves became calm as if something had dropped into it and submerged into the bottom.
No more had seen of the Nile. We listened to splashing music of Nile for some time and went down to our room. As we lay in our room, listening to the growling engine and splashing waters, I thought of the difference between day Nile and the night Nile.
Nile was in its best charm as we’d sailed from Aswan to Edfu. T he deep blue water evoked lush green waves on its banks. Just beyond the green growth, burning soil of Sahara desert glistened and craved for the touch of Nile.
Many camels had grazed on the river banks while farmers walked busy with their routines. We never knew time skipped into hours as we sat near the huge glass pane windows in our room, watching the beautiful expressions of the Nile.
For the lunch we had descended to the restaurant which came beneath the water level. The waves splashed across the window pane next to our seats. The waves seemed to touch us but danced back in glittering sunshine. It was an exotic experience for sure! We savored the view for a long time after finishing our lunch.
The dinner time took me away from the thoughts of the Nile. We went to the restaurant and took our regular seats. Our Spanish companions were busy reading the travelogue of Egypt. They suddenly rose in the midst of their dinner and hurried out of the hall. “They must have gone to see the Esna Lock,” The cruise captain who had dined with us, explained.
We had never heard of Esna Lock. It turned out to be the lock to raise and lower stretches of water between different levels of the Nile. The cruise would wait behind the closed gates in a chamber until the water level become equal. We rushed after our neighbors to watch this unheard practice.
Chill wind brazed us as we waited on the deck for the gates to be opened. Engines growled as they leveled the water in the Nile. After 15 minutes’ wait at the gate the water leveled to allow us to enter into the next phase of Nile. I didn’t felt anything great though! It may be due to my lack of interest in technical complicacies. Sreejith raved about this technique, while we came down.
The night had turned really dark as we came back from the Galapia Show at the visiting hall. I gazed through the window in hope to watch stars strewn across the Egyptian sky. The sky was dark and devoid of glitter. I dropped into sleep when the dark waters float out. The waves that cradled five thousand years of history and culture proudly floated along.


Continues in Karnak Temple: The Most Perfect of Places