The Sand Blushes under the Sun’s Kiss

Visiting the Sand dunes in Saudi Arabia, during the middle of April is definitely not a good idea. Yet, our time in the Kingdom is limited. We are not sure to experience the good climate of the holy land again! Therefore we planned our trip to the ‘Red Sand’ along with the members in our NOMA family.

The so called Red sand is a location situated 40 Kms away from the city of Riyadh. It’s a well known place for weekend hangout among Saudi residents. The place is famous for desert walks, bike riding and the sheer joy of a picnic.

Considering the climate of Riyadh in the month of April, we scheduled our trip for early morning hours on a Friday. Our cars started in line from Hara around 5.30 am, when the sun was shining bright above us. My family got into the Appuetan’s car. The choice was worth! Appuetan (Real name-Thrivikraman) who lives in Riyadh for the past 25 years updated us about the desert valleys, hanging bridge, forts and other destinations in Riyadh.

Roadside Mountains

The interesting ride was made more enjoyable with the view of rock walls on both sides of the road. The steepest roads were earlier covered with mountains. Later the government gave contract to the Bin Laden group to construct the wide roads. The construction firm has done a remarkable work by breaking the roads amidst the dry mountains with dynamites and high tech machineries.

Riyadh Check Post

The sun was shining golden across the natural forts and mountains as we drove further. We crossed the Riyadh check post adorned with Arabic sculptures.  We couldn’t decipher the meaning of the art form and ourselves gave the conclusion that it is somehow related with valor and war.

Stalls of desert bikes started to appear in view as we neared the Red Sand area. The landscape looked so different from those we have seen inside the city or at the Edge of the world. The steep cliffs succeeded by dark mud grounds and later by the red sand! After one hour of drive, we reached our destination.

We were the first ones to reach our destination. We took a short desert safari while waiting for the others. Interestingly, this short safari was more fun that the one we had in Dubai.

As we parked our car, the men from the bike stalls started swarming around. Appuetan, who has got a knack for bargaining, started his attempts. He reduced the charge considerably. There were many types of desert bikes. The highly priced big bikes were meant to go up the sand dunes. Sreejith and Sudeep took the lowest priced bikes and started riding. They tried to get their bikes up the hill and had a tough time to get out of the sinking sands.

I started walking and soon found that it’s not easy to wade with my drowning feet in the sand.  Though it was early morning, the plain sand was already tampered with footprints and ride marks. The sand blushed with the first kiss of sun rays. The vibration of life was pulsing underneath the sand layers. The sand remained untouched away from the trodden paths. Among the red sand lonely bushes glowed proudly for their power to stand amidst the trying ambience. 

Continues in Wroom Wroom... It’s Desert Bikes

Localizer Mall

Localizer mall in the capital of Kingdom is a hub of elite lifestyle. If you are in look out for expensive T-shirts, extravagant outfits, posh vehicles, diamonds etc. you are in the right mall here. Attributing to our third world lifestyle, we had never ventured the mall till previous night.

We were in the move of exploring the food courts of Riyadh and ended up parking our car in the spacious parking lot of Localizer mall. It was around 10p.m on a Monday night and the mall was comparatively deserted. For the first 15 minutes of our exploration in the mall, we couldn’t see any woman at all. Young men roamed around in groups. I started to get a weird feeling owing to my uncovered head and Indian looks.

We had not planned to purchase anything from the mall and after the initial wandering, headed straight to the food court. There were stalls for European, Arabian, Chinese and Italian dishes. Interestingly, only the Italian stall named Pastalitia had customers in front of it. We went there and soon found the reason behind the crowd. 

As we approached the stall, delicious smell of pastas wafted the air. After a quick look at the menu, we finalized for Chicken and shrimp pastas. The man at the food stall took the order and arranged the ingredients into the pan according to our taste preferences.  Soon our pan was in the queue to the kitchen fire along others' pans. 

Chicken & Shrimp Pasta

The wait to receive our pasta was quite a test with the tempting smell floating around. The cook was managing two pans together and ours was the sixth in the queue. After fifteen minutes of waiting, we soon had our tray accompanied by salads, garlic breads and colas. We went into the family eat out section adorned in the model of a green house. The pasta tasted so delicious and we decided that if for nothing else, we have to visit this place again for this unique taste.

Shreya in front of new car model

As we got out after the dinner, the crowd at the Mercedes Benz showroom attracted us. It was the launch of a new car model and people were marvelling the vehicle. The car was in limelight! Even Saudi women in pardas were edging to take the snapshot of the new vehicle. We also joined the crowd. Though I am almost illiterate about automobiles, I couldn’t resist gawking at the style of the new vehicle. Also, the mini models of the cars displayed in the counter were worth to watch for once.

As we came out of the Benz showroom, a pre-adolescent Saudi Prince passed us. The slim teenager with the baby face and two body guards of the same age was easily distinguishable with his Bisht¹ over the thawb². I resisted the temptation to photograph him in fear of the Saudi law³ that ban public photography.

We came out of the mall with a filled stomach and fulfilled mind. There are much more that we have to do in Saudi Arabia.

1.       Bisht: It’s a cloak for royal men worn on special occasions for prestige.

2.       Thawb: Literally the word means ‘garment. It’s a white robe with long sleeves worn by ritualistic Saudi men.

3.     Saudi law on Photography:  Public photography is not permitted in Saudi Arabia. It is concerned about the security of the place, local sensitivities and women’s privacy.

The Carpets of the Kingdom

When I’d first entered our rented apartment in Riyadh, I was surprised to step into the soft material that pampered my feet.  I marveled by the beautiful designs of the soft carpet that stretched to the four walls of the room in. I was yet to learn that carpets have a significant role in the interior decoration of Riyadh homes.

Though, carpet shopping hold a core role in home furnishing at Riyadh, I never had to go for the same. My home was already furnished with neat carpets that required cleaning once in a while. Therefore, I had no idea on the selection of carpets as we set out for our first shopping for carpets in Riyadh. 

We started around 6p.m to the carpet shops in the area of Exit 9. The hot summer sun was shining as if the time has moved just into the evening. However, cool air of air conditioners welcomed us as we entered one of the carpet galleries in the area.

Colorful carpets in splendid designs adorned the walls and floors of the shop. I felt like entering into an art gallery with masterful paintings. Indeed, it was aesthetic owing to the talent behind the carpet weaving. Apart from the Kingdom, most of the carpets came from Iran, Turkey and Afghanistan. It seems, there is a history for some exquisite carpets!

At first, we started to check out for the woven rugs. Since we were buying them for furnishing our home at India, we didn’t wait to check for the wall to wall carpets.  We were confused on which one to choose as we flapped through imaginative designs in rich colors. Finally we settled for one that suited our taste and budget.

It was then that I spotted the tufted carpets. They looked very comfy and plush. They were definitely destined for a cosy feeling in the bedrooms. We selected one polyester tufted rug in black and red shades for our master bedroom.  After getting it into our home our little Shreya is having a fun time on that!

After closing down our account in the first shop, we went to the neighbor showroom. Here, we were planning to get a rug for Shreya’s room. We finalized three carpets with the designs of Winnie the Pooh, Minnie Mouse and Speed Car for Shreya and her cousins. Our friends were happy to get the carpets with holy Makkah and Madinah designed on them. The deal was fixed for SR 100 per each carpet. However before we’d finished our shopping, the call for Salah came and we had to wait outside the shop.

We spent twenty minutes of the prayer time by watching the traffic on the roads.  Darkness was setting a blue shade on the leaves of Date Palms. The same happened as we returned to the shop after the Salah. The price of the carpets had increased to SR 150 per each one during the last twenty minutes. We lost our trust in the shop and came out without the rugs.

The time was around 9p.m as we reached back from shopping. When I got fresh up and hit the bed I thought of those people who had told that life at Riyadh is so dry. Life is definitely entertaining for us in this land with new discoveries and shopping experiences!

Hanging Cliffs and the Desert

Continues from The Enchanting Cliff!

I climbed back after the short time spent at the enchanting cliff. Everyone except Shehnaz, Munni and the kids has gone up the cliff. We waited with the kids for them to return. There was also an old lady from Germany who was also waiting for her daughter and son to return. We chatted for a while till Nadeer returned and took charge of the kids.

Most in our company were coming down as I and Shehnaz started to climb. However Sreejith had waited there for us with Bahr’s family. As usual my breath came short as we started the uphill journey. However this journey was a new one for me. Even when I was tired, I never had to remove my sweaters for once since the chilly wind did its job.

The view from the top of the hill was breathtaking. The vastness of desert stretched before us. The exotic feel and the opulence of the view bound us to the spot. Far away, we could spot the edge of another hanging cliff. However time was getting short and we left the idea of visiting that place.

Edge of the World

The view from the edge of the world was indeed a treat. Hanging cliffs and the vast stretch of desert lay hand in hand. Two minute figures at the edge of a faraway cliff reminded me of the perch of Akela in the Jungle Book.  

After some memorable time spent at the cliff, we climbed down. Again the stones became slippery under our feet and we had to take extremely cautious steps.

At the foothill the delicious and quick snacks packed by Didi chechi and friends were awaiting us. However one thing that we took care was to reduce the intake. There are no restrooms in the far stretched places and we should control our nature’s calls during this 10 hours journey. There weren’t even bushes apart from some thorny plants to make use of.

Soon, we drove back through the barren desert. At some points we had to take huge deviations due to the fissures formed in the middle of the desert. At a long stretched land, we stopped our vehicles. Since women were not allowed to drive in KSA, this was a stolen opportunity for women in the gang to get their hands on the vehicles. After the driving exertion, we don our Abhayas back to become the obedient women of KSA.

All through the way back, we saw groups of natives enjoying their weekend. They were very friendly and waved to us when our vehicles passed. The fresh air must have really kept their spirits in merry.

By 4p.m we stopped at the dam for evening snacks. The road on the way was so muddy and Mr.Shaji’s car was full bathed in mud water. The shawarmas and Doughnuts must have really rejuvenated everyone. It was then that Bakhr and his wife started a running competition from the bottom of the dam. I must really appreciate Mrs. Bakhr’s stamina. Bakhr had won only for the fraction of a moment. Watching them, even I wanted to try a running competition with Sreejith but left it because of inborn laziness.  All couples in the gang might have run a competition in their imagination.

Return from the desert

Soon after the evening snacks, we headed out of the desert. When we crossed the check post, a group of Westerners went in our opposite direction. They were heading to Edge of the world with camping equipments and a desert bike. It was then that I felt that what we had enjoyed at the edge of the world might not be the real spirit of the place. The true thrill that the place can provide might be much more. The place might take you to the real adventurous zone where you might even glimpse your Edge of the World!

The Enchanting Cliff!

Continued from The Beauty of the Mirage

Vehicles at the edge of the abyss

After a short break at the unknown place of nature’s wonder, we soon headed to our destination.  However Bahr’s and our car fell way behind them. Nadeer and Sreejith were sprinting around with their cameras and it was so difficult to get them back.  However it was worth a delay since we got a rare snapshot of parading vehicles at the edge of the abyss.

We treaded through the narrow and adventurous roads. We were so attentive to each twist and movement of the vehicle that we hardly realized as we reached at the edge of the world!

The hanging cliff stood before us as wonder from the nature. The road ended at the foot of it. There were only two more SUVs apart from our vehicles.

There was the cliff to climb up and an unbeaten path to move down. Bahr and his wife were the first to explore the downward path followed soon by Sreejith. I was getting impatient to follow them but stayed back because of Shreya. But, Shehnaz and Munni assured me to go ahead as Shreya was happy in the company of their kids. We removed our Abhayas for further exploration.

The steep path downward was not as easy as it looked from above. As the rolling stones started slipping under the feet, I thought of climbing back. However Sreejith was there to rejuvenate me with the description of the view at the end of the cliff. His words filled me with the feeling that I can do that.

I took cautious steps downward and could see Shreya as a spot above the path. (Later Shehnaz told me that the little one got angry for leaving her behind. She was actually throwing stones at me.) Two more steps I was at the edge. But the same moment my legs started feeling wobbly. The wind was so strong to hurl me out. The stones beneath the feet became more slippery. I stood there for some time then moved slowly. Then I was there at the edge!

At the Cliff

The clouded sun of winter shone above my head. I couldn’t comprehend anything for some time. Then, I sat there. As my eyes grew out of the fear one of the most magnificent views that I had in my life stretched before me. The desert in front of me expanded to the horizon. The dim sun shone above the slanting cliffs making them look like golden forts. For me it was a divine view indeed. I felt close to heaven and my mind felt unusually peaceful. This would be a view I would cherish in my memories forever.

Continues in Hanging Cliffs and Desert

The Beauty of the Mirage

 Continues from A Weekend Escape to the Edge of the world! 

On our way to the Edge of the world, we passed many of the native travelers who have come to rejuvenate themselves in the weekend at the desert. One specialty of these groups is the barbecue items that they had carried with them. We have noticed it at many times that whether in a park, or beach or any entertainment area, the natives might always carry the equipments for barbecue with them.  Another important accessory for their leisure period will always be the Hookahs. Here many of the men were sitting in a relaxed manner with the Hookahs under the trees. The meat for barbecue was tied safely and dangling safe from the branches of trees.

Natives enjoying their weekend

Our friend Nadeer was so excited to watch these scenes it seems. He kept on taking the snapshots. I and Shehnaz stopped our incessant chatter to admire these scenes. The women in the group were chatting and preparing barbecue. The women were all covered under the safety of their Abhayas.  It was so sunny outside and we wondered about these people sitting all clad in their religious attires. However our doubt got clarified very soon.

It was by 11a.m that we took our first break for refreshment. Thanks to our travel companions, we hadn’t realized that time passed so soon and we were actually feeling hungry. As we came out of the car, we felt the real climate in that sunny looking desert. The wind was so chilling!  Everyone soon gathered their sweaters and shawls before even looking around.

Soon, women formed their own chit chat group and men theirs. Mr. Shaji’s Wife whom everyone called didi chechi had brought the Kerala style Vellayappam with her.  Sarah chichi distributed sandwitches and Usha chechi had prepared homemade cake for everyone. The snacks soon finished out of the tray.  Shreya had her own gang of friends to run away from food and we mothers soon relaxed ourselves from the tiring duty of feeding them.

The hill across our parking area looked so huge with a block of mud rocks. The trees around the area were leafless. It was for the first time that I was seeing something like that-Trees without shades! 

We soon resumed our journey. There were no roads henceforth and we relied entirely on previous trails and on our whims. On the way we got glimpses of streams that were still glinted with a little water from the previous day’s rain. After passing the streams we got into the heart of deserts. It was worth a view to watch the clouds of dust aroused from the move of our vehicles in the not so trodden roads.

The Chasm before Edge of the World

We moved through the desert for a while before spotting an area resembling the one that we had seen in the pictures. All of us were so excited to see the wide gulf made in the desert. The gigantic chasm was really enchanting. The silver sand in the abyss resembled the sand in the beach.

However I was getting a little disappointed. I expected a little trekking in this journey and there was not much scope for it here. It was then that we realized our mistake. This is not the edge of the world but just scenery.  Though this was a mirage of our destination, it was worth spending our time out there.

Continues in The Enchanting Cliff 

A Weekend Escape to the Edge of the world!

Riyadh, the capital of Kingdom of Saudi Arabia never held any charm to me. Whenever there came up a chance, we always preferred to run away from the land of deserts, barren with nature and moving lifestyle. We never thought of exploring its heart other than the shopping malls and well kept parks.

It was by sheer accident that Sreejith came upon the pictures of an exotic location that his friend had updated in her Facebook profile. The hanging cliffs, the wilderness of the desert around it and the sheer excitement on the face of travellers tempted us to the core. We started searching for the suitable comrades to explore this enchanting place. Our search ended soon and we all started our journey on 10/03/2011.

Since our company comprised of travelers as toddlers too, we had chosen comfortable and relaxed timings for our journey. The five SUVs started in a line from Hara around 9a.m in the morning.  As we took the right turn from the majestic building of Kingdom tower, the city scenarios started to change into village scenes. We passed the vegetable farms and associated stalls before we reached the wilderness of the desert. Our travel was directed by the route map taken from the websites,  GPS in the fellow companion Shaji’s car and the previous visiting knowledge of Mr. David.

The road between mountains

Our travel was uninterrupted except for missing a deviation for once. However we didn’t mind this deviation since we had a chance to travel on a road constructed between the Desert Mountains.

As we entered into the desert roads the momentum of our vehicle started to slow down. I, who had constantly questioning the need of a SUV for this drive started realizing the demand of the unpredictable desert road.

As soon as we entered to the preserved desert area, we found something surprising-the construction of a dam! Riyadh is known for the scarcity of water sources. Yet, the increase in the consecutive rains might have prompted the authorities for this construction. This is the season of rains in deserts and our vehicles moved ahead through the moist soil.

After taking permission from the check post we moved into the real wilderness of the deserts.

Continues in The Beauty of the Mirage