Dim Distress with the Red Sea

 Continues from Jizan-The Gateway to a Magic Land

On our first evening at the Coral Gulf, we were all excited to explore the waves of Red Sea. The Sun hurried down behind the clouds, leaving crimson shards behind on the sky. 

Coral Gulf Beach

The sky was still bright when we reached the shores of Red Sea. However, the brightness of the Sky was not visible in the Sea. The land and water had already turned dark with the setting rays of Sun. However, the lure to wade in the water was unstoppable and we got in. “Ouch!” It was my first reaction! Something pricked on my feet and the sand under that slipped!

Much synonymous with the hotel’s name, the beach at the Coral Resort was covered with corals. Hard and lifeless corals scattered around the beach with carcasses of fish, empty cans and bottles. The water was shallow for a long way. The sand near the shore was slimy and covered. For the first time, I felt scared to get into the Sea.

Yet, when I drew back in disappointment, there were others in the group, who were still inexorable. Shreya ran into the water and Sreejith had to accompany her against his will. Little Ayan and Duaa also joined them with Nadeer.

As I and Shehnaz waited for the crew to come back, stars started spreading their gleaming carpet on the sky. The wind blew putting a veil on our day today anxieties. The group returned soon and the men went out in search of ‘homely’ dinner.

I and Shehnaz gathered the kids and retreated to the bedroom balcony. We sat on the balcony floor watching the serene nature. A mongoose was running on green grass as a white fur on a green carpet. As we started to talk freely as you do with your close friends, a memory came clear in my mind. Mine and my friend Amitha’s incessant conversations at the roof of our hostel under the wind and stars from the Bengal Bay. Yes, the best moments in your life might repeat at similar places and with similar people. 

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Jizan-The Gateway to a Magic Land

Continues from A Night Journey among the Asir Mountains

 

The next day morning I opened my eyes to curtains resembling Dharwish dancers' costumes. The room was decorated with black velvet cushions, black upholsteries and dimly lit lights. My claustrophobia began to raise its head. I opened the windows and pulled aside the curtains. The strong rays of sun warmed the room. The time was approaching noon and we had to reach the Jizan port by 1p.m.

The Jizan Port has the ferry service to Furasan Islands twice on each day. We’d scheduled our tickets for the evening ferry. Our friends at Jizan had advised us to reach early since some days, the queue to the ferry can take long times. After quick refreshments and shower we came out of Al-Adnan hotel within an hour. 

We reached Jizan Port by 1p.m two hours in advance to the ferry time. The air was hot humid and salty. However, for me who had spent three memorable years at a sea shore, the smell was reviving and welcoming. All this time, I had the image of a ferry made of wooden planks that used to transport men and sometimes two vehicles in my village at Kerala. However, I realized soon that the two huge ships at the Port combine the ferry. We got into the ferry soon after the procedures.

Jizan Port and the Ferry at the distance

The ambience inside the ferry resembled the ambience of airlines. This ferry service is an initiative under King Abdullah’s rule and totally free of cost. It was our first stint with the Red Sea and we were all excited. The ferry will take us to the Furasan Island situated 50Kms away from the port and totally isolated in the sea. 

We were clicking some good photos of blue and green sea as two security guards rounded us. Photography was strictly prohibited in the ferry and they asked us to sit and enjoy the travel. Thanks to them, it was then that we actually started enjoying the journey.

A View of Jizan Port

The sail started on time. In contrary to its name, the Red Sea glittered in shades of blue and green and sometimes black. Nature had added magnificent hues of colours to the scene. The kids started to claim that they had seen pink, red and blue dolphins. In my childish mind, I wouldn’t have been surprised to see such a miracle. The view was that much splendid and mesmerizing. 

As the humming of waves faded small uninhabited islands across the ocean came into view. The water near them glistened in sky blue color indicating the shallowness for kilometres around them. The vast sea was surging with short waves around. Though purified by the sun, pampered by moon and reconnoitered by human eternally, the waves seemed to retain their novelty.

The time was approaching evening. The Sun shone from blaze to brilliance on the horizon. As far as the eye can see, the water turned into golden veil.  The sea was changing colors from blue to green to dark to golden. However I felt that everything underneath these transparent glistening coats laid the same from the prehistoric times.  I felt, here is the untameable sea with whom lays the intelligible facts regarding the adventures of Islamic natives.

As we neared the island, we could see rocky cliffs carved by nature in different contours. For me, they looked beautifully eerie as if sprung out from Agatha Christie’s novels. These obscure figures obsoleted any description.

The island started to appear in view first as a dark line, then as a long rock land and finally as endearing girl protected by her loving family. All around the island the rocky cliffs marked the outline at a distance in the water. 

We arrived in Furasan Port after an hour’s journey. We hit the roads that were decorated with artificial sun flowers and fruits in the median. The short drive took us to our destined retreat Coral Gulf seemed to be situated in a fisherman’s village. As we finally, entered our room in Coral Gulf with the sweet smell of natural herbs and an overwhelming view of Red Sea, calmness spread over and relaxed my nerves.

Continues in Dim Distress with the Red Sea

A Night Journey among the Asir Mountains

Continues from  From Desert to the Sea Coast, on a Day! (A travel to Jizan, Farasan Island and Abha)

As we started from Wadi al Dawasir, the night had spread its black blanket adorned by silver starlets. The roads were completely dark and devoid of streetlights. The opposite roads were divided by a wide barren area saving us from the blaring headlights of the coming vehicles. In the shadows of night there were outlines of Asir Mountains in majestic order.

We stopped at Khamis Mushayat by 10p.m. The wind was getting cold and I was getting travel sick. Yet, we decided to continue. All was in a blur as we drove through the roads of Abha and the steep downward route to Jizan. Someone had warned us that the journey from Abha to Jiazn consists of many hairpin roads and risky at night. But the well walled roads didn’t even give us the feeling of curves. Yet, the steep downward journey started to churn my insides. Then, at the middle of the winding roads, I threw up!

From Abha to Jizan

It was definitely a signal for us to take rest. We parked our car on a roadside. The wind was piercingly cold as we came out. I swallowed four packed chapathis without even looking up. As I finished the dinner, I looked around. Dark Asir Mountains walled the opposite side of the road. Vehicles raced on both sides seamlessly. Stars were strewn on the beautiful and open night sky. As I looked on, a shooting star sparkled down without even letting others to see it. 

A few paces away from us, a roadside vendor was frying the corn. We craved for it as well as the warmth of its fireplace. Afterwards we realized that the vendors in Arab world have to go a long way to make the piquant Butta (deep fried corns) from Indian streets.

I dozed off during the journey from Abha to Jizan. As I woke up, we were in the neighbourhood of our hotel. All signboards were in Arabic and the very few people on the road were natives. We tried reading the boards in vain. It was the first time that I felt to be in an Arab world after my three years stay in Riyadh. We called the hotel reception and owing to Nadeer’s broken Arabic we checked into the hotel by 2a.m. All I can remember after that is the soft snore of little Shreya and regular breathing of Sreejith heard in between my sleep.

Continues in Jizan-The Gateway to a Magic Land

From the Desert to the Sea Coast, on a Day! (A travel to Jizan, Farasan Island and Abha)

Eid holidays in Riyadh are filled with travel and sightseeing over the past three years. We are not sure whether we would be there to experience one more Eid vacation in the country. Therefore, our journey during this Eid vacation (2011) held much significance to us.

We started our journey on 03/11/11. After the hectic packing and preparations, we started our journey by 10a.m. We should not have hit the center of Al-Kharj since there was a short route from Riyadh road to Wadi al Dawasir, our first destination point on the route to Abha.

At Al-Kharj, the men put the odometer to zero to calculate the distance. The hours went swiftly in the company of our friends Nadeer and Shehnaz. The traffic was a little heavy and the truck drivers were not as friendly as were in Dubai-Riyadh route. We stopped by 1p.m for lunch at a petrol station.  The restaurants in the surrounding constituted of Saudi cuisine and we were happy to devour our homemade food.

All of us were in a sleepy mood during the post-lunch drive. However the kids were more alert and getting restless. I and Shehnaz had all our eyes on them and didn’t even look out to see the changing sceneries. 

Najd Mountains

By evening, the kids were almost settled. By that time we had reached the borders of Wadi  al Dawasir. The setting sun had spread its golden blanket on the rocky mountains of Najd valley. The scene was so beautiful and refreshing in the long journey. As we entered the huge gates into Wadi al dawasir, we never knew that we were entering the city of a tribe who had a major role in the construction of many cities in the Middle East.  The city that apparently seemed smaller and crowded was behind the birth of major cities. The tribe also either gave birth or helped the growth of cities like Dammam, Khobar, Al Ahsa, al Zubara, Al Faw, Kuwait, Baharin etc. 

We stopped for refreshments and tea at a petrol station in Wadi  al Dawasir.The evening was young and spirited and even the usually tasteless tea seemed to be better in that evening. 

Continues in A Night Journey among the Asir Mountains